Le dos de l'elephant - Punta di U Corbu
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Maurizio Oviglia
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Le dos de l'elephant
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
P. d’Arbois, P. Faivre & P. Tanguy, from 31/10 to 2/11/1989
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
SW
Length
280m
Difficulty
6c max
Obligatory difficulty
6a expo
Route
Grandiose rock face and beautiful slab route, demanding and exposed despite being reequipped. Some sections climb 5c/6a ground 6m above the last bolt. The complicated approach and length of the route make this an outing which should not be underestimated.
Getting there
From Solenzara take the road towards. After Bocca di Larone (608 m), the view opens onto the beautiful granite towers. Continue to the bridge at Polischellu and park the car here. Access
Do not follow the path on the right (hydrographic left) which leads to Teghie Lisce, but follow a track along the other bank. Keep as close as possible to the river and, when you reach a reddish rock face (circa 30 minutes from the bridge) ascend up a dry river bed to the base of an obvious rounded pillar (1.15 hours). Descent
Abseil down the route (two 50m ropes). Gear
12 quickdraws, double 50m x 9mm ropes, nuts are useless. The route is equipped with 8mm and 10mm bolts.
From Solenzara take the road towards. After Bocca di Larone (608 m), the view opens onto the beautiful granite towers. Continue to the bridge at Polischellu and park the car here. Access
Do not follow the path on the right (hydrographic left) which leads to Teghie Lisce, but follow a track along the other bank. Keep as close as possible to the river and, when you reach a reddish rock face (circa 30 minutes from the bridge) ascend up a dry river bed to the base of an obvious rounded pillar (1.15 hours). Descent
Abseil down the route (two 50m ropes). Gear
12 quickdraws, double 50m x 9mm ropes, nuts are useless. The route is equipped with 8mm and 10mm bolts.
Comments
28/11/2011 Franz Salvaterra
via bellissima su una roccia incredibile, un ora e mezza di avvicinamento (sbagliando ripetutamente la giusta traccia).
Attenzione che i tiri finali sono difficili e chiodati nettamente piu lontani.
Siamo scesi a doppie(6 o 7) in un enorme diedrone laterale al pilastro di delicatessen, ci sale una via soste attrezzate e spit.
Stupenda per gli amanti della placca
13/08/2006 Conti Marco
..se la Destivelle scrisse che "E' probabilmente la più bella via di placca del mondo.."; forse non ci sono altri commenti da fare..Avvicinamento non banale..noi ci siamo arrivati dopo cinque ore di sudore!!Salita insieme al mio tesoro Mirella
13/08/2006 Marco Conti Conti Marco
..Non ci sono parole per descriverne la bellezza e la selvaggità del sito..Attaccata con Mirella alle 2 del pomeriggio dopo 5 ore di ravanamento..non è uno scherzo!
11/11/2003 Lia Mozz
semplicemente stupenda! l'aderenza nell'azzurro del cielo!!!
Beauty
First ascent
P. d’Arbois, P. Faivre & P. Tanguy, from 31/10 to 2/11/1989
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
SW
Length
280m
Difficulty
6c max
Obligatory difficulty
6a expo
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
14/07/2001 - Climbing
Corsica rock climbing Climbing on Corsica: a selection of some of the best multi-pitch rock climbs in Bavella, Val Restonica and Valle du Tavignano. By Maurizio Oviglia.