Gitanes bleu - Monte Taburlo
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Luca Vallata, Mountain Guide
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Interesting mixed climb on the north face of Monte Taburlo in the Ampezzo Dolomites. Three initial pitches, not particularly difficult but not to be underestimated, are followed by majestic ice pitches. The most exciting pitch is certainly the first frozen wall, 50 steep meters of thin ice.
From Cortina take the SS 51 towards Fiammes. Drive past the Castello di Podestagno and continue on towards Passo Cimabanche. After a few kilometres turn off left at the hairpin bend (Km 111, sign for Parco Naturale d'Ampezzo) onto the small road that leads up to the hut "Ra Stua". Drive up to the "S'Uberto" clearing (1428m).
AccessFrom the Sant Uberto hairpin bend continue to Cason de Antruilles and then along Ruoibes de Fora. The icefall springs clearly into view on the left, on the north face of Taburlo (with skis or snowshoes circa 50 minutes).
ItineraryP1: M4 50m (1 peg)
P2: M6+ 55m
P3: M4 60m (belay with 2 pegs)
P4: WI5 40m
P5: WI5 30m
P6: snowfield 80m
P7: WI4+ 30m
P8: WI4+ 40m
Abalakov on the upper section and two 60 meter abseils on in-situ pegs (see topo)
GearA selection of pegs and a set of cams for the first three pitches are essential
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