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Emanuele Andreozzi
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Emanuele Andreozzi / Vaida Vaivadaite
First Time in Val Ombretta, opposite the south face of the Marmolada,l is not particularly long, but its two pitches are on excellent quality ice, set in a truly unique ambient. Given its altitude and the fact that it faces north, it promises to remain in condition for quite a while, possibly throughout all of winter. All those wishing to repeat it are kindly asked to respect the environment, and to leave everything as clean as possible. This includes establishing Abalakovs by threading your own ropes and not abandoning tat since this, when the ice melts in spring, transforms into rubbish which takes several decades to decompose.
Reach Malga Ciapela
AccessFrom the car park at Malga Ciapela, ascend towards Rifugio Falier as in summer, i.e., following path #610 to Malga Ombretta. Once you reach the hut, continue towards the Falier refuge, remaining in the vally floor. At the end head left towards Forcella Ombrettola and after the first steep slope reach the north face of Monte Fop, where at an altitude of circa 2,300m you reach the base of the icefall. Calculate circa two hours from the car park. Depending on the snow cover, consider whether to use skis or snowshoes: if on foot and with plenty of snow, the approach will take significantly longer.
ItineraryP1: 55m, WI 5 vertical wall, then exit into the snow gully, ice belay
P2: 15m, WI 4 short drip. Ice belay.
Abseil off Abalakov
GearFull ice climbing rack: two 60m half ropes, one set of ice screws, quickdraws
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