The routes

Climbing routes

30
Routes in archive
Marinaio di foresta
Marinaio di foresta - Pedra Longa
6a+
A beautiful route that climbs diagonally up Pedra Longa, also known as Agugliastra, the extraordianry sea stack close to Baunei. The fantastic ambient and the aggressive rock render this an unforgettable outing!
Mediterraneo
Mediterraneo - Punta Giradili
7a+
Mediterraneo is an elegant climb that weaves its way between the huge overhangs of the lefthand side of the face. It ascends on a strip of exceptional grey limestone, offering huge exposure next to the giant roof (the vault is...
Mezzogiorno di fuoco
Mezzogiorno di fuoco - Punta Giradili
8b
The 270m Mezzogiorno di fuoco weighs in at 8b (7c obligatory) and climbs the overhangs in the center of the fantastic pillar which cuts through the entire wall. Larcher led all pitches after three days working the route. If their...
Millennium Bug
Millennium Bug - Millennium Cave
7b+
Great route which crosses the Grotta di Millennium at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. Established ground-up by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in June 2011 and freed by the duo in October 2011.Oviglia describes the route as follows: "Millennium bug isn't...
Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro
Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro - Punta Giradili
8b
The new route Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro was first ascended ground-up using a drill and hook and without intermediate gear and it takes a line through the cave to the left of the beautiful Via Mediterraneo on Punta Giradili. Those...
Onda Azzurra
Onda Azzurra - Monte Donneneittu
8a+
Onda Azzurra was established ground-up and alone by Alexander Huber over a period of 4 days in January 2016, and freed in April 2016 by Huber and Michael Althammer. The climb breaches the massive overhangs.
Paradiso Ritrovato
Paradiso Ritrovato - Doloverre di Sùrtana, I North pillar
V
The arête has four short vertical sections, linked by less steep terrain. Paradiso Ritrovato follows the crest as best possible, up excellent rock. There is no in-situ gear on this route and the first ascentionists hope the route remains in this...
Passavamo sulla terra leggeri
Passavamo sulla terra leggeri - Punta Cusidore
6b+
Nice climbing on exceptional limestone . Shade depending on what season you climb, in summer until 12/13. In winter, avoid days when the mistral or libeccio winds blow.
Sa serra 'e Tiscali
Sa serra 'e Tiscali - Doloverre di Sùrtana, XI North Pillar
IV
Easy but airy climb up the entire ridge to the top of the pillar. While the rock is generally excellent, tale care where the crest is somewhat thinner. There is no in-situ gear on this route and the first ascentionists...
Schiavi senza Padrone
Schiavi senza Padrone - Punta Cucuttos
VI+/VII-
A beautiful long outing up slabs through the West Face of Punta Cocuttos
Sinfonia del mulino bianco
Sinfonia del mulino bianco - Guglia dei Miracoli, Bacu Àrala (Baunei)
6a
Sinfonia del mulino bianco is a good-natured play on words and refers back to Sinfonia dei mulini a vento on the Aguglia of Goloritzé, the famous rock climb put up by Manolo and Gogna. The new climb is like the...
Sole Incantatore
Sole Incantatore - Aguglia di Goloritzé
6c
Sole Incantatore is a beautiful climb up Aguglia di Goloritzé, perhaps the most popular on this huge limestone tower and without a doubt the most repeated multipitch sport climb in Sardinia. Established by abseil in 1995 by Maurizio Oviglia, it...
Spigolo dell'Ospitalità - SE Arête
Spigolo dell'Ospitalità - SE Arête - Pedra Longa
VI, 5c
This rock climb was first ascended in 1982 by Umberto Marampon on his own in 14 hours. 8 pitches lead up the SE arete of the spectacular Pedra Longa tower, above the Baunei sea. Attention: one section of loose rock.
Umbras
Umbras - Punta Cusidore
8a
Very technical climbing on rock which is reminiscent of the Verdon. The route is bolted but at times there are very long run-outs.Of the routes that I've first ascended in Sardinia, this one has true character, like Hotel Supramonte and...


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