From 2 to 5 June 2017 Kanzianiberg in Austria will host King of Kanzi, the 1980’s climbing festival. Special guests include Nives Meroi, Romano Benet, Steve House, Jacopo Larcher, Markus Pucher, Michael Kemeter, Lisi Steurer, Lorraine Huber and Thomas Brandauer.
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster on nearby Ogre II.
On 31 January 2016 Lucie Hrozová made the first ascent of Saphira, a mixed climb graded M15- at the The Fang Amphitheater in Vail, Colorado, USA.
British climber Tom Ballard discusses his recent climbs, which include the first ascent of Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+ in the Dolomites, Italy.
After having flashed 'Reverse Stratofortress' M12+, Angelika Rainer has repeated The Mustang at the Fang Amphitheater, Vail, USA. With her first grade M14- mixed climb the Italian climber proves she’s on formidable form for her outdoor projects and the next stages of the Ice Climbing World Cup.
The Canadian alpinists Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken have repeated The Mustang P-51 (M14-) at The Fang Amphitheater, Vail, Colorado, USA.
Courmayeur and Chamonix are the world’s mountaineering capital once again thanks to the Piolet d'Or 2015. The recipients of the 23rd edition of this prestigious award are Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Alexander Gukov, Alexei Lonchinskiy, Aleš Česen, Luka Lindič and Marko Prezelj. The 7th Piolet d'Or Carrière will be awarded to the great British mountaineer Chris Bonington.
This evening at 21:00 at Courmayeur the award's ceremony of the Piolets d'Or 2014. All updates on twitter.
From the most remote mountains in Nepal and Pakistan to the frozen lands of Alaska, via the imposing Masherbrum massif and symbollic Annapurna. Five ascents, carried out by some of the world's most talented alpinists, are in the running for Piolets d'Or 2014, the most important mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 26 - 29 March 2014 at Courmayeur and Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc.
George Lowe, Erri De Luca, Catherine Destivelle, Denis Urubko, Lin Sung Muk and Karin Steinbach are the members of the highly expertPiolets d'Or 2014 Jury, with complementary approaches, endowed with a mountain spirit transcending the framework and limits of the discipline
From 26 - 29 March 2014 Courmayeur and Chamonix will host the 22nd edition of the Piolets d’Or, the Oscars of mountaineering. American alpinist John Roskelley will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière.
Video of American climber on Red Bull and Vodka at Vail, Colorado, USA.
Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Ines Papert debuts in the Himalaya with Cory Richards and forges 'Cobra Norte' (WI5, M8, TD & R) up the North Face of Kwangde Shar 6093m, Nepal, Himalaya.
On 6/07 the Slovenian mountaineers Pavle Kozjekande Gregor Kresal made the first ascent of Stonehenge (VII+/VI, 70/50° ice, 600m), up the East face of Puscantrupa Este (5410m), Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.