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Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across...
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
On 25/03/2024 Franz Anstein, Federico Maremonti and Andreas Tonelli skied what is likely to be a new line on Piz de Puez in the Dolomites, Italy. Called 'Canal sëura l uët', this couloir provides difficulties in the region of 5.1...
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 -...
New climb on El Mocho in Patagonia by Nico Lewin, Ignacio Mulero, Leon Riveros
08/03/2024 - Climbing
New climb on El Mocho in Patagonia by Nico Lewin, Ignacio Mulero, Leon Riveros
Ignacio Mulero, Leon Teizan Riveros Molina and Nico Lewin have made the first ascent of 'Arigato Chalten' (7c, 450m) on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia.
Sir Sandford South Couloir first ski descent in Canada by Mark Herbison, Josh Lavigne, Christina Lustenberger
Sir Sandford South Couloir first ski descent in Canada by Mark Herbison, Josh Lavigne, Christina Lustenberger
On 14 February 2024 Mark Herbison, Josh Lavigne and Christina Lustenberger made the first ski descent of the South Couloir of Mount Sir Sandford (3519m), the highest peak in the Selkirk Mountains, British Columbia, Canada. Lustenberger reports.
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
15/02/2024 - Alpinism
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
Joda Dolmans and Kristian Vindvik have made the first ascent of 'Full Pakke' (M5, WI6, R) at Bodø in northern Norway. Dolmans reports about the new mixed outing he describes as 'one of the best new winter routes that I’ve...
New ski descent on Capucin du Requin in Mont Blanc massif by Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry
New ski descent on Capucin du Requin in Mont Blanc massif by Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry
On 14/01/2024 Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the obvious gully on Capucin du Requin above the Vallée Blanche in the Mont Blanc massif.
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
12/01/2024 - Alpinism
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
Enrico Lovato reports about the first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' (320m, 5+, M7, 40°) established on the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites with Federico Asciolla on 5 January 2024.
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
21/11/2023 - Alpinism
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
Swiss alpinists Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli have climbed the Salbitschijen west, south and east ridge in an unprecedented record time of 5 hours and 53 minutes. The previous best known time was set in July 2023 in Dani Arnold...
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
02/11/2023 - Alpinism
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
From 5 - 7 October 2023 Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Hayden Wyatt made the alpine style first ascent of 'Brilliant Blue' (850m, AI3, 80°, M7+) on White Sapphire peak (6040m) in the Kishtwar Valley in India. This is only...
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
23/10/2023 - Alpinism
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
On 12/10/2023 Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel and Rolf Zurbrügg made the first ascent of the west face of Rottalhorn (3971m) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps via their 'Herbstwanderung'.
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by...
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen...
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from...