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Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
06/04/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
The report by Belgian alpinist Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll who this season has established two new rock climbs on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia: Chalten Sin Clecas (Chalten without tickmarks) with Mecha Rocamora...
Franco Nicolini, Davide Galizzi climb new route in heart of Brenta Dolomites
17/03/2021 - Alpinism
Franco Nicolini, Davide Galizzi climb new route in heart of Brenta Dolomites
On Punta Centrale dei Sfulmini in the Brenta Dolomites Franco Nicolini and Davide Galizzi have made the first ascent of the rock climb La Piccozza nella Roccia. Nicolini reports about the route dedicated to his friend Giuliano Stenghel.
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the...
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
11/05/2019 - Climbing
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
In November 2000 Charlie Woodburn made the first ascent of Harder, Faster at Black Rocks in England. Almost 20 years later, this remains one of the most dangerous and least repeated trad climbs in Great Britain.
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
02/05/2019 - Climbing
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
French climber Caroline Sinno has climbed her first 8B boulder problem, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre, at Fontainebleau
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
19/11/2018 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
At the crag Bilico (Primiero, Dolomites) Alessandro Zeni has made the first ascent of Energia Cosmica, Cosmic Energy, a sports climb the 27-year-old has now tentatively graded 9a+.
Climbing USA: Donald Trump reduces Bears Ears National Monument by 85%
05/12/2017 - Environment
Climbing USA: Donald Trump reduces Bears Ears National Monument by 85%
The President of the United States Donald Trump has reduced protected lands in the Bears Ears National Monument by 85%, and by 45% those protected in the National Monument.
Midnight Lightning: Filippo Manca explores the legendary Ron Kauk boulder problem in Yosemite
06/11/2017 - Climbing
Midnight Lightning: Filippo Manca explores the legendary Ron Kauk boulder problem in Yosemite
Filippo Manca talks about his bouldering trip to America where, in Yosemite, he managed to repeat the legendary Midnight Lightning boulder problem. Moments later he encountered American climbing legend Ron Kauk who, in 1978, made the first ascent of what...
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early...
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
06/02/2017 - Alpinism
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
On 20 and 21 January 2017 François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti and Jules Pession (Cervino mountain guides) made the first ascents of 'Livello Inferiore' and 'Nuovi Orizzonti', two new mixed routes in Valtournenche. Francesco Ratti reports.
Ned Feehally mantles Ned Zepplin at the Roaches
28/12/2016 - Climbing
Ned Feehally mantles Ned Zepplin at the Roaches
The video of British rock climber Ned Feehally climbing Ned Zepplin at the Roaches, one of the UK's hardest mantels.
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli,...
Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia
Interview with Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher after his solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia.
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
On Sunday 28 August 2016 Adam Ondra won the KO Boulder Contest of the 30th Rock Master, beating in a thrilling final Germany's Jan Hojer and France's Jeremy Bonder, joint second. Victory in the women's event went to Katharina Saurwein...
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
07/07/2016 - Climbing
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
In June 2016 Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of Nubivagant - Wandering in the clouds (455m, 5.13d/A0 8b) up Pico Cão Grande on the island of São Tomé, Africa.