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29.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes

Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).

24.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hansjörg Auer, Matthias Auer traverse Ötztal Alps Kaunergrat in winter

From 14 - 17 March 2017 Hansjörg Auer and his brother Matthias traversed the main part of the Kaunergrat in Austria’s Ötztal Alps.

24.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Angelika Rainer powers through French Connection in the Dolomites

In February 2017 Angelika Rainer from the South Tyrol repeated French Connection at the crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D15-, it is considered one of the hardest total dry routes in the world.

11.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cerro Torre Ragni route: Daniel Joll & Kim Ladiges make first 2017 ascent

The video the documents the first ascent in the 2016/2017 season on the Ragni route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by New Zealand’s Daniel Joll and Kim Ladiges.

08.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alex Txikon ends Everest winter expedition

Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon has abandoned his attempt at climbing Everest in winter after retreating from Camp 2 (6400m) due to high winds.

07.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alex Txikon sets off on last Everest attempt

The Everest winter expedition led by Alex Txikon is now in its final phase: after having reorganised the expedition and waited for several weeks, the Basque mountaineer along with several Sherpa has now reached Camp 2 and is about to begin his final bid for the summit.

04.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert

Winter mountaineering: Luka Lindič and Ines Papert ascended the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France, combining the routes 'No Siesta' and 'Bonatti - Vaucher' from 20 - 22 February 2017 and with two bivies.

03.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017

American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.

01.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Climbing in Patagonia: Pou brothers add Aguja Guillaumet ascent

Spanish mountaineers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou have established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia. Called 'Aupa 40', the 525m outing breaches difficulties up to 5+, M7 85˚.

28.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Old Boy, difficult new mixed climb at Cogne by Mauro Mabboni and Patrick Gasperini

On 16 and 17 February 2017 Mauro Mabboni and Patrick Gasperini made the first ascent of Old Boy, a difficult new mixed climb above Lillaz close to Cogne in Valle d’Aosta, Italy.

23.02.2017 by Riccardo Quaranta in Alpinism

Monte Miletto, new mixed climb Infinite Dreams in Italy’s Matese mountains

Winter mountaineering in Molise, Italy: Riccardo Quaranta reports about Infinite Dreams (120m, AI4-, TD), the new mixed climb he established Monte Miletto in the Matese massif, established on 15/02/2017 with Agnese Flavi.

22.02.2017 by Francesco Rigon in Alpinism

Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love

Francesco Rigon reports about his ascent of 'Night Love' (WI5, 35m), a probable new ice climb in Val d'Ansiei (Cadore, Italy).

20.02.2017 by Elio Bonfanti in Alpinism

For Adriano Trombetta

In memory of Adriano Trombetta, who died Friday, Feb. 17, 2017 along with Margherita Beria D’Argentina and Antonio Lovato in an avalanche on Monte Chaberton (Val di Susa, Cottian Alps). By Elio Bonfanti.

19.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greg Boswell winter climbing video profile

The video profile of Greg Boswell, one of the UK’s strongest Scottish winter climbers.

17.02.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Passion, alpinism and risks

A thought for Mauro Franceschini, Antonella Gallo, Antonella Gerini and Fabrizio Recchia who yesterday, Thursday 16/02/17, lost their lives when the icefall Bonne année collapsed in Valle di Gressoney, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.

16.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Video: Mountains featured in BBC documentary Planet Earth II

The Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and the splendour of the Alps celebrated in this video filmed for the 'Mountains' episode of the BBC documentary Planet Earth II.

16.02.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella

The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the East Face of Cerro Murallon in Patagonia. The first ascent was carried out in a day and a half in pure alpine style on a remote Patagonian mountain that was first ascended in1984 by the Ragni Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali.

14.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Winter mountaineering in Scotland / Greg Boswell adds difficult new mixed climb to Cairngorms

On 08/02/2017 Greg Boswell and Scott Grosdanof made the first ascent of Intravenous Fly Trap, a difficult new mixed climb at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms, Scotland.

14.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Walter Bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum

In October 2016 the Turin-based Mountain Museum acquired the archive of Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti; a immense treasure that still needs to be catalogued, studied and archived for the history of mountaineering and more.

13.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Merry Christmas, amazing icefall climbed in Linzhou Taihang canyon, China

Ice climbing in China: a stunning icefall resembling a Christmas tree was first ascended on 31/01/2017 by He Chuan and Liu Yang in XianXia canyon, a branch of Linzhou Taihang canyon.




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