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18.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Question madness

The video 'Question madness' with which The North Face celebrates its 50th anniversary. An invitation to question what kind of madness drives us to constantly explore our limits and consider what renders us truly happy and free.

12.10.2016 by Giovanni Zaccaria in Alpinism

High pressure over Mont Blanc

The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria and Alice Lazzaro.

11.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climb virgin North Face of Sersank Peak in Indian Himalaya

British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders have successfully ascended the hitherto unclimbed North Face of Sersank Peak (Shib Shankar), a 6100m high mountain in the Indian Himalayas during an 8 day round trip.

11.10.2016 by Vinicio Stefanello in Events

Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea

From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our film "Chris Bonington - Life and climbs" provided a good reason for a trip (and a little adventure) to discover the meaning of the mountains in this great East Asian country.

09.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Kimshung Expedition 2016: François Cazzanelli, Giampaolo Corona & Emrik Favre establish Base Camp

Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Giampaolo Corona and Emrik Favre are currently in Nepal where they have established base camp at the foot of the Himalayan giants in the Lang Tang Valley. The goal of the expedition is the hitherto unclimbed Kimshung (6781m) or to ascend Langtang Lirung (7221m), first climbed in 1978 by Seishi Wada and Pemba Tsering.

08.10.2016 by Hervé Barmasse in Alpinism

For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz

On 6 October 2016 Gérard Ottavio, president of the Matterhorn Alpine Guides, and Joel Déanoz, director of the Breuil-Cervinia ski school, fell to their deaths on the South Face of the Matterhorn during an attempt to repeat the difficult and demanding Deffeyes - Carrel route. Their deaths are an immense loss for Cervinia and for the entire Italian mountaineering community. Hervé Barmasse remembers his friends.

06.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence

Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny.

21.09.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia

Interview with Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher after his solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia.

19.09.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Marc-André Leclerc claims first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia

In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).

12.09.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Le bruit des glaçons new route video on Siula Grande in Peru

The video of the new route Le bruit des glaçons up the East Face of Siula Grande in Peru, established by French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain.

08.09.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cerro Torre solo winter attempt, Markus Pucher stops 40 meters below summit

Climbing along the Ragni route, on 3 September 2016 Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher climbed to within 40m of the summit of Cerro Torre during his attempt to carry out the first winter solo ascent of this iconic mountain in Patagonia.

07.09.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain

In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).

06.09.2016 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Asgard Jamming, the climbing style by Favresse & Villanueva

PlayAlpinismo films free of charge: Asgard Jamming. The adventure of Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Olivier Favresse, Stephane Hanssens and Silvia Vidal on Mount Asgard (Baffin Island) is an ode to happiness, climbing and discovery. The film review by Vinicio Stefanello.

04.09.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Search efforts ended for Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, missing on Ogre II

The search and rescue efforts have been called off for Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, the American alpinists last seen on Monday, August 22, 2016 on the North Face of Ogre 2, Pakistan.

02.09.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greenland big wall climbing: Apostel Tommelfinger West Face climbed by international team

Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber, Fabio Lupo, Jérôme Sullivan and Antoine Moineville have made the first ascent of Metrophobia (ice 120°, A2+, 7a), a 1700m new big wall climb on Apostel Tommelfinger in Southern Greenland. The new route is believed to be the first up the West Face of the 2315m high mountain.

31.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Funding appeal for Scott Adamson & Kyle Dempster missing on Ogre 2, Pakistan

A support fund has been launched to help the American alpinists Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, currently missing on Ogre II, Pakistan.

22.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mont Blanc, Ueli Steck raids the Innominata Ridge

On 16/08/2016 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck raced up the Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) to the summit of Mont Blanc. Not to set a speed record, but to enjoy 'a great day out in the mountains.'

21.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria

Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites) in memory of his grandfather Giuseppe Suppiej.

18.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Events

Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016

On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll wall and the first ascent of via Degli studenti up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) by the Italians Giorgio Travaglia, Alex Walpoth, Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth.

17.08.2016 by Vinicio Stefanello in Events

Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016

On Wednesday 17 August Switzerland’s Ueli Steck, one of the most talented mountaineers in the world, will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15 and will be hosted by Vinicio Stefanello of planetmountain.com.




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