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22.02.2017 by Francesco Rigon in Alpinism

Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love

Francesco Rigon reports about his ascent of 'Night Love' (WI5, 35m), a probable new ice climb in Val d'Ansiei (Cadore, Italy).

20.02.2017 by Elio Bonfanti in Alpinism

For Adriano Trombetta

In memory of Adriano Trombetta, who died Friday, Feb. 17, 2017 along with Margherita Beria D’Argentina and Antonio Lovato in an avalanche on Monte Chaberton (Val di Susa, Cottian Alps). By Elio Bonfanti.

19.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greg Boswell winter climbing video profile

The video profile of Greg Boswell, one of the UK’s strongest Scottish winter climbers.

17.02.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Passion, alpinism and risks

A thought for Mauro Franceschini, Antonella Gallo, Antonella Gerini and Fabrizio Recchia who yesterday, Thursday 16/02/17, lost their lives when the icefall Bonne année collapsed in Valle di Gressoney, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.

16.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Video: Mountains featured in BBC documentary Planet Earth II

The Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and the splendour of the Alps celebrated in this video filmed for the 'Mountains' episode of the BBC documentary Planet Earth II.

16.02.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella

The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the East Face of Cerro Murallon in Patagonia. The first ascent was carried out in a day and a half in pure alpine style on a remote Patagonian mountain that was first ascended in1984 by the Ragni Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali.

14.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Winter mountaineering in Scotland / Greg Boswell adds difficult new mixed climb to Cairngorms

On 08/02/2017 Greg Boswell and Scott Grosdanof made the first ascent of Intravenous Fly Trap, a difficult new mixed climb at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms, Scotland.

14.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Walter Bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum

In October 2016 the Turin-based Mountain Museum acquired the archive of Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti; a immense treasure that still needs to be catalogued, studied and archived for the history of mountaineering and more.

13.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Merry Christmas, amazing icefall climbed in Linzhou Taihang canyon, China

Ice climbing in China: a stunning icefall resembling a Christmas tree was first ascended on 31/01/2017 by He Chuan and Liu Yang in XianXia canyon, a branch of Linzhou Taihang canyon.

12.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Everest in winter / First attempt failed. Alex Txikon & Co return to Base Camp

14/02/2017: The mountaineers attempting to climb Everest in winter without supplementary oxygen have returned to Base Camp. Alex Txikon, Nurbu Sherpa and Cheppal Sherpa had reached South Col at 7950m but were forced to descend due to high winds. 12/02/2017: The Everest winter expedition without supplementary oxygen led by Alex Txikon continues to make progress. The Basque mountaineer, Nurbu Sherpa and Cheppal Sherpa and have now reached Camp 3 (7400m).

10.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid

The Spanish expedition led by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon to climb Everest in winter and without supplementary oxygen has begun in earnest. A weather window is forecast for 14 to 18 February 2017.

10.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ötztal Freizeitstress ice climb established in Austria by Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger

On 19/01/2017 Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger made the first ascent of Freizeitstress, a new mixed climb in Ötztal, Austria.

08.02.2017 by Ivan Laković in Alpinism

Montenegro: most difficult icefall climbed in Tara canyon

A mixed team of climbers from Montenegro and Serbia, comprised of Nikola Đurić, Dušan Branković, Dušan Starinac, Danilo Pot and Ivan Laković, recently climbed the two highest frozen waterfalls in Montenegro: Strast (WI5+, 150m) and Mali zec (WI4, 150m) in the Tara canyon close to Dobrilovina. Laković provides the report.

07.02.2017 by Luca Tamburini in Alpinism

Brenta Dolomites La Stangata / A great ice climb in Val Genova

In Val Genova (Brenta Dolomites) Luca Tamburini and Giorgio Tameni made a rare repeat of the beautiful and enormous icefall La Stangata, first climbed in 2012 by Patrick Ghezzi and Alessandro Lucchi.

06.02.2017 by Francesco Ratti in Alpinism

Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides

On 20 and 21 January 2017 François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti and Jules Pession (Cervino mountain guides) made the first ascents of 'Livello Inferiore' and 'Nuovi Orizzonti', two new mixed routes in Valtournenche. Francesco Ratti reports.

05.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat

Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.

02.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway

Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).

01.02.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana

Winter mountaineering: first ascent video and interview with Romano Benet who, with Slovenia's Tine Cuder, made the first ascent of the new icefall Hysteria at Rio Vandul in Val Raccolana (Italy).

01.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 won in Corvara by HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song

The last stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup was held last weekend in Corvara; HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song won both the stage in Val Passiria and the overall World Cup. The fastest Speed climbers were Pavel Batushev and Ekaterina Feoktistova, while the Speed World Cup was won by Vladimir Kartashev and, in the women’s event, by Ekaterina Koshcheeva and Maria Tolokonina.

30.01.2017 by Umberto Bado in Alpinism

Vanessa robe neire, new mixed climb in Valle dell’Orco

Winter mountaineering in Italy’s Piedmont region: in Valle Orco Marco Appino and Umberto Bado, together with David Sacchetti, completed Vanessa neire robe, a mixed climb they had begun in 2010. Umberto Bado provides the report.




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