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06.05.2016 by Luca Vallata in Alpinism

Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom

Out of the ordinary mountaineering in Slovenia: Luca Vallata recalls the ascent, carried out together with Matteo Rivadossi and Andrea Tocchini, of one of the longest and most continuous ice climbs in the Eastern Alps. The icefall is not located in the mountains, but inside a mountain, namely in the Brezno pod Velbom cave at 2050m altitude, on the Slovenian side of Mount Canin.

02.05.2016 by Francesca Colesanti in Alpinism

Alex Lowe and David Bridges: bodies found in the Himalaya, 16 years after struck by avalanche

The bodies of Alex Lowe, one of the strongest American mountaineers of all time, and David Bridges, have been discovered in the Himalaya 16 years after having been swept away by an avalanche while climbing Shishapangma (8027m), Tibet. Their remains were discovered by Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck and his German counterpart David Göttler.

28.04.2016 by Ben Lepsant in Alpinism

Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island

Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island, Canada.

27.04.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bolivian Cholitas climb the Andes to conquer emancipation

A group of Bolivian women is currently attempting to to climb eight mountains over 6000m in the Andes. Aged up to 50 and wearing their traditional dress, for years they have worked as cooks or porters for trekking and mountaineering expeditions.

23.04.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised

After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the reconnaissance phase is longer than expected.

21.04.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria

On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.

19.04.2016 by Ivo Ferrari in Books-press

Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena

A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.

15.04.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on

The expedition in Patagonia led by Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura to document the effects of over 100 years of climate change as part of multi-year project "On the trails of the glaciers" has taken photos of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre and compared them to those taken by Alberto Maria De Agostini.

08.04.2016 by Aaron Moroder in Alpinism

New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth

On 16/02/2016 Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Freit dl mond (120m, M7, VI+), a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites.

07.04.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured

From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden; Cerro Riso Patron (Chile) by France's Jerome Sullivan, Lise Billon and Antoine Moineville and Argentina's Diego Simari; Cerro Kishtwar (India) by the Slovenes Marko Prezlj and Urban Novak, America's Hayden Kennedy and France's Manu Pellissier. The 24th edition will also award Polish alpinist Wojciech Kurtyka with the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award.

06.04.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard

On 17 March 2016 the alpinists Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard have made the first ascent of Aller Simple pour Mars, a difficult new mixed climb up the Pic de l’Aurore face at Percé, Canada graded M7+ WI7- 190m.

30.03.2016 by Roberto Iannilli in Alpinism

Lino D'Angelo farewell

Lino D’Angelo, the man and mountaineer who came to represent Gran Sasso and Pietracamela, died in L'Aquila at the age of 95. An important piece of the history of mountaineering. The obituary by Roberto Iannilli.

28.03.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para in Les Drus North Couloir Direct

The video of Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para repeating the North Couloir Direct alpine climb on Les Drus in the Mont Blanc massif.

26.03.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Himlung in Nepal, mountaineering off the beaten track

The report by Italian alpinist Riccardo Bergamini who on 23 October 2015 ascended Himlung 7126m, a remote mountain situated on the border between Nepal and Tibet.

24.03.2016 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership

Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger: how the climbing partnership was formed that, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, paved the way to the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan).

22.03.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Angelika Rainer end of season drytooling on Low G Man at Bus del Quai

At the start of March at the total dry tooling crag Bus del Quai, Italy, Angelika Rainer repeated Low G-Man, her first route graded D14. This follows her January repeat of the mixed climb The Mustang M14- at Vail, Colorado, USA.

16.03.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alpinism: new ice and mixed climbs at Nipissis in Quebec

In February 2016 Jean-Philippe Belanger, Jas Fauteux, Maarten van Haeren, Charles Roberge and Pete Takeda established six new ice climbs at the Le mur de 51 wall in the remote Nipissis area in Quebec, Canada.

16.03.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2016 at Chamonix

Registration is now online for the 5th Arcteryx Alpine Academy that will take place from 16 - 19 June 2016 at Chamonix, France. This unique event offers climbers of all abilities to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly on Mont Blanc.

Ahrntal, the video of the Schneebiger Nock avalanche fracture line

The video of the fracture line of the avalanche that on Saturday, March 12, 2016 killed six ski mountaineers on Schneebiger Nock (3358m) in Ahrntal, Italy. This is reportedly the most deadly avalanche accident in the South Tyrol in 25 years.

11.03.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň

On 30-31/01/2016 the Slovak alpinists Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smolen made the first ascent of Asado (665m, 7a+, M8, A2), a new climb up the South Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.




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