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07.02.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Giuliano Cameroni climbs IUR, one of Cresciano's best boulder problems

Swiss boulderer Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of a series of quality boulder problems in the Ticino region of Switzerland. One of the highlights is IUR, a 8B+ described as one of the best in Cresciano.

06.02.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hansjörg Auer climbs new winter lines in Ötztal

On 19 January 2018 Hansjörg Auer and Tobias Holzknecht made the first ascent of Nordstau, a new mixed climb in the Ötztal, Austria. On 29 January Auer teamed up with Simon Messner to carry out the first winter ascent of the nearby North Face of Innerer Hahlkogel.

06.02.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra climbs two 9a+ at Charmey and St Léger

At Charmey in Switzerland Adam Ondra has repeated Meiose, indicating 9a+ instead of the 9b grade suggested by first ascentionist Pirmin Bertle, while at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France the 25-year-old Czech climber has free yet another 9a+.

03.02.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bletterbach, possible new icefall climbed by Ladurner and Lemayer

Ice climbing in Italy's South Tyrol: in the Bletterbach Gorge Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer climbed Eistänzer, a probable new 110 m high ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M6.

29.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup: HanNaRai Song extends her lead, Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh claims Iran's first victory

On Saturday 27 January 2018 HanNaRai Song won Lead category in the Ice Climbing World Cup in Corvara in Val Passiria for the third consecutive time. In the men's competition there was a maiden victory when Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh became the first Iranian ever to clinch a stage victory. The Speed discipline was won by Russia's Anton Nemov and Nadezda Gallyamova.

28.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!

Elisabeth Revol has been rescued off Nanga Parbat by Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala who climbed ceaselessly throughout the night. A helicopter transported the Frenchwoman to Islamabad and she will now return to France for medical treatment, while the four mountaineers will return to their attempt at climbing K2 in winter.

27.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nanga Parbat, Elisabeth Revol reached by Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko

UPDATE at 22:28: Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko reach Elisabeth Revol! This morning the rescue operation began to try and save Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. Two helicopters transported Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala from K2 to Nanga Parbat, dropping them off at circa 4900 meters; the rescuers are currently climbing up towards the Frenchwoman and Pole.

26.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Drama on Nanga Parbat, fears for Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol

High up on Nanga Parbat the Polish mountaineer Tomek Mackiewicz and France’s Elisabeth Revol have reportedly run into difficulty during their attempt to climb the mountain in winter. A rescue operation has been organised from K2.

26.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Goodbye Miss Elizabeth Hawley, legendary chronicler of Himalayan expeditions

Miss Elizabeth Hawley has passed away at the age of 95. The American journalist was recognised as a legendary chronicler of mountaineering expeditions to the Himalaya.

25.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup 2018, Han Na Rai Song, Alexey Dengin win in Saas Fee

South Korea’s Han Na Rai Song and Russia’s Alexey Dengin won the Lead discipline of the first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2018 that took place last weekend at Saas Fee in Switzerland. The Speed discipline was won by the Russians Nikolai Kuzovlev and Ekaterina Feoktistova. During the competition, Climbers Against Cancer (CAC) donated £25.000 to the Swiss Cancer Research Foundation.

24.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dani Arnold free solo video of Beta Block Super up Breitwangfluh

The video of Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold who on 24 December 2017 made an audacious free solo climb up the icefall Beta Block Super on Breitwangfluh in Switzerland.

Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Xavier Gachet and Laetitia Roux win in Villars

The second stage of the Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2018 took place at Villars-sur-Ollon in Switzerland last weekend. France’s Xavier Gachet and Laetitia Roux won the Individual race, ahead of Robert Antonioli and Axelle Mollaret, second, and Michele Boscacci and Victoria Kreuzer, third. The Sprint Race had to be cancelled due to problems caused by the bad weather.

23.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Civetta Solleder - Lettenbauer, the French winter ascent video

Winter mountaineering video: the winter ascent carried out by French alpinists Max Bonniot, Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines of the historic Solleder - Lettenbauer up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites).

23.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cerro Adela Sur, new Romanian variation by Capusan, Zolt in Patagonia

Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Török Zolt have added a new variation to Filo Este on Cerro Adela Sur in Patagonia. The logical new line was climbed in 34 hours.

22.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Pumori winter ascent by Alex Txikon & Co in preparation for Everest

In preparation for the winter ascent without supplementary oxygen of Everest, Basque alpinist Alex Txikon and Pakistani mountaineer Ali Sadpara climbed Pumori, the beautiful 7161m summit in front of Everest. Nuri and Temba Sherpa also reached the summit. The report by Domenico Perri.

22.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Final '68, crowdfunding campaign ends in just one week

The crowdfunding campaign for Final ’68, the project that aims to document the exploratory phase of the Pietra del Finale between the years 1968 and 1975, will come to an end in seven days time.

19.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Hyaena, the Andrea Gallo testpiece at Finale, Italy

The video of Jakob Schubert climbing Hyaena at the crag Monte Sordo at Finale Ligure, Italy

19.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup 2018 starts in Saas Fee, Switzerland

The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2018 got underway in Saas Fee, Switzerland today. The Speed finals take place the evening, tomorrow hosts the Lead semifinals and Finals. All stages transmitted in live streaming.

17.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale

At the crag Monte Sordo in Finale Ligure, Italy, Giorgia Tesio made the first female ascent of Hyaena. First climbed in 1986 by Andrea Gallo, this sport climb has remained a reference point for top end sport climbing.

Perrons de Vallorcine new ski descent by Bruchez, Felisaz, Guerin

On 7 January 2018 Vivian Bruchez, Jonathan Felisaz, Thomas Guerin skied a new line on Perrons de Vallorcine in the Aiguilles Rouges massif in France.




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