The news
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this...
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
15/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza On 31 January 2023 Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina and Giovanni Ravizza established two 'amazing' mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (La Thuile, Valle d'Aosta): 'Tutte le Guide del Presidente' and 'Sento puzza di fuoco'.
14/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat Between 5 and 8 February 2023 the French mountain guide Thibault Sibille carried out the first winter solo of the Rébuffat route (Michel Chevalier, Gaston Rébuffat 26/07/1944) on the NW face of Grand Pic de Belledonne (2977m) in the...
10/02/2023 - Alpinism
Felix Berg, Adam Bielecki, Mariusz Hatala to attempt new route on Annapurna Adam Bielecki from Poland and Felix Berg from Germany are preparing for a new attempt on the difficult NW Face of Annapurna (8091m). Already attempted in 2017, the two intend to establish a new route alpine-style route on the NW...
09/02/2023 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton On 30/02/2023 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of 'Sognando l’inimmaginabile' on the East Face of Mont Blanc du Créton (3406m, Petites Murailles, Italy). 600 meters high, the new mixed climb is graded WI...
07/02/2023 - Alpinism
Paraclimber Solenne Piret leads ice climb at Ceillac, France French paraclimber Solenne Piret has led her first icefall at Ceillac in France. Despite being born without her right forearm, the 30-year-old continues to push her boundaries in all forms of climbing.
03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m)....
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war 35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had...
23/01/2023 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France 12,330 meters of altitude gain and a 138 km integral traverse, over a period of two days, solo, across the Queyras mountains from Vars to Villard. This, in short, is the ski mountaineering traverse carried out by French mountaineer Benjamin...
06/01/2023 - Alpinism
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team Alex Txikon, with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa, Gamje Babu Sherpa and Chepal Sherpa, summited Manaslu in winter and without supplementary oxygen. This is the first integral winter ascent of the 8th highest mountain in...
23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers! An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in...
07/12/2022 - Environment
Vanishing giants: the tropical glaciers of Colombia facing extinction Colombian mountaineer, photographer and documentary filmmaker Gustavo Acosta shares his knowledge and photographs about the shrinking tropical glaciers of Colombia.
17/11/2022 - Alpinism
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel On 11/11/2022 Silvan Schüpbach and Peter Von Känel started their winter climbing season early with the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Frigo-combo' (M7/6a, 450m) on the NW Face of Douves Blanches (Point 3582m) above Val d'Arolla in Switzerland. Schüpbach...
25/10/2022 - Alpinism
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was...
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