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Shauna Coxsey
Photo by Elias Holzknecht
The first stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2014 at Chongqing in China: Jan Hojer
Photo by Heiko Wilhelm / IFSC

Shauna Coxsey and Jan Hojer win in Grindelwald


The third stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2014 was won yesterday at Grindelwald in Switerland by Shauna Coxsey and Jan Hojer.

Her victory had been on the cards for a while, yesterday everything was simply perfect and she finally made it happen: Britain's Shauna Coxsey clinched her first-ever victory a stage of the Bouldering World Cup by winning at Grindelwald. After having placed second and third countless times, last night Coxsey didn't her dream elude her by dominating in the Semis and then starting superbly in the Finals, controlling her nerves to send all 4 problems in a mere 10 attempts. The queen of bouldering Anna Stöhr needed two attempts more to place second, while Germany's Juliane Wurm placed third thanks to her 3 tops. The mantra of the marvellous five we mentioned last week could be heard in Switzerland again, with Akiyo Noguchi and Alex Puccio fourth and fifth respectively, while Rebekka Stotz made the most of competing at home to place a surprising sixth. In truth the 22-year-old Swiss climber had placed a superb 8th at Log Dragomer but her recent best result is obviously great news for the Swiss team. Jenny Lavarda from Italy banked on all her experience to finish 11th, while her teammates Andrea Ebner, Alexandra Ladurner and 39a e Annalisa De Marco placed 27th, 39th and 57th respectively.

Jan Hojer won his second leg this season thanks above all to his flash of the final problem. This enabled him to beat Dmitrii Sharafudtinov, the only other athlete capable of topping out on this problem, in three attempts. Third place went to Kilian Fischhuber who suffered on the both the first and last problem, while Japan's Rei Sugimoto succeeded in doing what no one else did, namely send that “impossible” first problem. His teammate Tsukuru Hori failed to send a final problem in the final but his two bonus points secured him fifth place, while strong Slovenian Jernej Kruder unfortunately turned up too late for isolation and was therefore barred from competing in the final. The bonus zone proved “fatal” for Gabriele Moroni, the best Italian and first excluded from the final for having needed two attempts more than Sugimoto to send his 3 Semifinal boulders. Grindelwald marks an excellent comeback for the young Italian and hopes are high for the next stage at Innsbruck next week. His teammates, Michael Piccolruaz, Stefan Scarperi 53° ed Andrea Zanone, placed 45th, 53rd and 63rd respectively.

IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing 2014 - Grindelwald

1 Jan Hojer GER 3t7 3b7
2 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 3t10 4b14
3 Kilian Fischhuber AUT 2t7 2b7
4 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2t23 3b22
5 Tsukuru Hori JPN 0t 2b11
6 Jernej Kruder SLO 0t 0b

1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t10 4b10
2 Anna Stöhr AUT 4t12 4b8
3 Juliane Wurm GER 3t11 3b7
4 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t3 2b3
5 Alex Puccio USA 1t3 3b6
6 Rebekka Stotz SUI 0t 0b





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