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09/2012: Saga di Valle Bavona (7c+/8a, 205m, Stephan Isensee, Tobias Wolf).
Photo by Tobias Wolf
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Val Bavona, new rock climb and free ascents by Tobias Wolf


In Val Bavona (Switzerland) Tobias Wolf has made the first ascent of Saga di Valle Bavona (7c+/8a, 205m).

Remember Tobias Wolf? Gritsonte aficionados certainly won't have forgotten the German climber who in 2003 caused quite a stir with his series of fast repeats of difficult and dangerous routes prior to decking out and... luckily only breaking his wrist!

Well, almost a decade has passed and Wolf has obviously been active, so much so that in September in Val Bavona (Tessin) he established and freed Saga di Valle Bavona together with Stephan Isensee. The route takes a 205m line up Gendarm de Gramüsèd to the left of Il mito della Caverna with difficulties up to 7c+/8a.

Apart from this route, Wolf freed the last pitch of the nearby route Profumo di Puttanone (established by Claudio Notari, Marco Pagani and Nicola Vonarburg, while the final pitch was an open project bolted by Matteo Della Bordella). This last pitch proved to be extremely bouldery and Wolf suggests 8a+. Furthermore, on 7 September Wolf carried out what is likely to be the first integral free ascent of La Scrimmia nuda, suggesting difficulties up to 8a.

TOPO: Saga di Valle Bavona, Switzerland





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