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The routes up the East Face of Monte Oddeu (the cental section).
Photo by archivio Maurizio Oviglia
Cecilia Marchi climbing Alfredo Alfredo, Monte Oddeu
Photo by archivio Maurizio Oviglia

Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu


Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.

The East Face of Monte Oddeu is located close to Cala Gonone, in the Dorgali area of Eastern Sardinia. The first three climbs were established almost 40 years ago by Finance Policemen from Predazzo, while in the 1980's Alessandro Gogna and Marco Bernardi left their mark with the first ascent of Coda dell’Angelo, a grade VIII corner protected with trad gear. A plethora of bolt routes were added in the 90's starting with the noble La mia Africa by Maurizio Oviglia and Cecilia Marchi, and including those by Paolo Pezzolato from Trieste, Eugenio Pinotti from Piacenza as well as the demanding rock climbs by Lorenzo Nadali from Bologna.

After a period of relative calm Monte Oddeu is back in the limelight once again with a series of "easy" routes established by the Cagliari-based climbers Corrado Pibiri and Fabio Erriu. The two have already left their mark on the nearby faces of Bruncu Nieddu and Surtana and they have now made the first ascent of Codina di Topo (close to the N arête), Tre tazze di tè, 200m 6b max, and the more difficult Alfredo, Alfredo, 200m, 7a. Both routes offer obligatory 6a climbing and close bolts, and Alfredo, Alfredo was freed by Roberto Vigiani during the first repeat.

In spring 2012 Maurizio Oviglia returned to this face to add his fourth route. Almost 20 years after his La mia Africa he now climbed a line immediately to the left, La nostra svizzera, 200m , 6c (6a+ obligatory). Oviglia was joined by his partner Cecilia as well as Eugenio Pinotti, the climber who established perhaps the most popular route on this face, Compagni di Viaggio. La nostra svizzera was freed by Marchi and Oviglia and has already seen numerous repeats; its beauty has been confirmed, the bolts are slightly closer than Mia Africa and the route is slightly easier and always in the region of 6a+ - 6c.

Last but not least, visiting German climbers Jo Bassier and Michi Schaefer have recently finished their Appointment with the beer, a project they started in 2008/2009 and left incomplete until now. Located immediately to the right of Mia Africa, this circa 200m, 7 pitch route has difficulties up to 6c+.





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