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Enrico Baistrocchi on Maschio dominante
Photo by Klaus Dell'Orto
Anna Borella on black woman dream_Piscina
Photo by Claudio Piscina
The Irrepressible Lightness of Being, or rather, the 3 splendid "mello-girls" tackling a "sacred" Mello problem.
Photo by Klaus Dall'Orto
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Melloblocco 2013 – day three: bouldering calm


Sunday 28/04/2013. Climbing in all its forms hallmarked day 3 of Melloblocco, the world's largest international climbing and bouldering meeting in Val di Mello – Val Masino. Despite the rain people climbed and took part in a thousand different ways on the boulder problems covered by the Lombardy Mountain Guides.

On Melloblocco day three you don't mention it any more, or almost. We're obviously talking about the rain that, even today, came and went as it wanted to. But no one seemed to notice. Everyone organised themselves. Some began the day with a bit of yoga, with the sun salutation. Others kicked off the morning with an indoor session on the local climbing wall. While others, most in fact, ventured calmly off into the forests, sometimes armed with umbrellas, in search of boulders to climb.

Naturally the most popular - and how could it be otherwise? - were the boulders which had been "covered", previously and wisely, by the Lombardy Guides who teamed up with Simone Pedeferri's team of route setters. They deserve full credit for these "safety islands" that have transformed into special places for a Mello No. 10 that is showing its true character, determined and light, like never before.

Unsurprisingly, since all here are young (even those who aren't really that young any more) and the excuse of being somewhere else, enjoying some climbing and freedom, is simply too tempting to resist. You just take things in your stride... and soon the results show. Yes, because even today some sent a great top, or got some climbing done. And some did a great little jumaring up the rope fixed by the Lombardy Guides on the Sasso Remenno overhang. Since yesterday a true classic. Or even made the most of some indoor climbing lessons on offer by the Guides.

Yesterday Maschio Dominante - one of the men's competition problems - was sent by incredible Columbian Christian Aristizabal Serna and the Italian masters Enrico Baistrocchi and Marzio Nardi, while today it was sent by Riccardo Caprasecca, Matteo De Zaiacono, Matteo Sera, Patrick Bilatti and Thomas Alessi. In the women's competition, Julia Abramchuk is the only athlete to have sent one problem, yesterday's Climb for life woman. But the day isn't over yet; they may still be some surprises in store. All are still out there, because the rain has, god bless, a pause for reflection.

Talking about time to stop and think. Melloblocco No. 10 has only just begun: there are still seven days to next Sunday's grand finale. In many ways this is a tiny marathon, and no one here seems to want to sprint too fast. So much has yet to happen. Lot's of things will evolve. In the meantime plenty are getting ready to reach the valley. Because, as some climbers posted on Melloblocco's FB page: "We'll come all the way from Sesto San Giovanni regardless of the rain, because we are nineteen and therefore stupid and heroic." This in many respects is the spirit of Mello. Reflected also in the particular "greater meaning for bouldering, rocks and life" which Marzio Nardi discussed last night at the Mello marquee during his highly acclaimed show Ghiaia.

To finish on the subject of youngsters, the ultra young. Imagine this picture from Mello today. Location: one of the most evil women's boulder problems (i.e. wildly overhanging). Under the miraculous tarpaulin cover a varied mass of climbers waits to try the problem and suss out the beta. Including a mother with baby in arm, while the other little child lies asleep in a pram a little way off. At one point the baby wakes up, smiles and goes back to sleep. And then he wakes up again... At this point the small group of climbers spontaneously makes way for him to enjoy the show, too. The boy, well behaved and happy, seemed really interested. Surely he doesn't want to suggest the beta to get to the top? As if to say: he's taking notes for Melloblocco #20.

Music will be provided this evening at the Filorera centre by The Gang Band Live. While tomorrow continues... Melloblocco galore!

Monday 29 April and Tuesday 30 April until 14:00 the competition problems can be self-certified with videos (with smart phone, video camera…)
The video must be one single file. Post-production is forbidden. Follow the signs at the base of the problems.
VIDEO CONSIGNMENT AND CHECK: from 17:00 to 19:00 at the Centro Polifunzionale (reception).

Video: Christian Aristizabal Serna su Maschio Dominante

05/05/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: day ten, goodbye to the Valley
04/05/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: day nine, beauty
04/05/2013 - Melloblocco, 2013, day eight: climbing without limits
03/05/3013 - Melloblocco 2013, day seven: sun and a warm welcome
02/05/2013 - Become a bone marrow donor at Melloblocco
01/05/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: day six, 1st of May, sun, clouds and climbing
30/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013, today the special evening dedicated to Valle di Mello
29/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: day four, a bit of everything
28/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013 – day three: bouldering calm
28/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013, Anna Borella shares her personal perspective

27/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: sparks of imagination during day 1
27/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013 - day one: Chinese lanterns fill the sky
24/04/2013 - Melloblocco, 10 years of history, climbing and culture in Val di Mello – Val Masino

23/04/2013 - Melloblocco Backstage, an exhibition documenting the birth of the boulder problems

22/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013, more than just bouldering with the Lombardy Mountain Guides
12/04/2013 - Melloblocco Special 2013: 10 years for 10 free climbing days in Val di Mello





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