Lucy Creamer climbs E8 at Curbar, Peak District
Lucy Creamer repeats "Slab and Crack" E8 6c at Curbar, Peak District and becomes the first British woman to breach this grade on gritstone.
Lucy Creamer, one of Britain's most impressive all-rounders, has just repeated "Slab and Crack" E8 6c at Curbar, Peak District. In doing so Creamer becomes the second woman to climb a route of this grade, after Lisa Rands from America ascended End Of The Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar in 2004 and Gaia E8 6c at Black Rocks in 2006.
An ascent of this magnitude had been in the air for a while: Creamer had previoulsy onsighted up to E7 (Boss Hogg E7 in Pembrokeshire) and recently she had devoted attention to headpointing some gritstone testpieces, which netted her fast ascents of Janus E7 6b and Toploader E7 6c in October.
Attention then shifted to Slab and Crack and after successfully toproping the 14 meters in a single push Creamer attempted the lead on Sunday. Disaster almost struck during the attempt when, after having climbed the bold start and placed the blind RP2, she fell from the crux. Miraculously the RP2 held her fall... Creamer, whose main love is trad climbing, collected herself and successfully fought her way up the 1986 Johnny Dawes testpiece early the next afternoon.
Lucy Creamer - mini curriculum
Trad on-sight: Boss Hogg E7 6c- Pembrokeshire,UK.
Sport on-sight: Planete Groove f8a- Gorges du Tarn, France.
Redpoint: Abregnief f8b- St.Leger, France.
Headpoint: Slab & Crack E8 6c Curbar, Peak District.
Mountain route: Hasse-Brandler UIAA VIII, 500m Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy.
Expeditions: new route, Venus Envy E4/5 6a, 600m The Baroness, Greenland. 2001.
Mixed new route: Mighty Aphrodite M9x- Ouray, Colorado USA, 2002. Still unrepeated.
New boulder problem: Trente-six Font 7c+- Veaux, France.
Best competition result: 7 times British champion, 2 World Cup Lead finals (Chamonix 2004 and Ratho 2003)