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Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr during the first ascent of the route Mayr/Auer up Kastenwand, Pinnistal, Austria.
Photo by Hansjörg Auer
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Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr add new route to Kastenwand


Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have made the first ascent of the Mayr/Auer route up the Kastenwand, Pinnistal, Austria.

The Kastenwand face on the Ilmspitzen above Stubai is renowned for its poor rock, so much so until recently only one route breached this characteristic square-shaped block of limestone: Chaos, put up in 1990 by one of Austria's most talented alpinists, the late Andreas Orgler and reputed to be one of his greatest first ascents in this area.

Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have now added the second route to this face after establishing a line over three days ground-up. The Mayr/Auer climb takes a 7-pitch line up the righthand side and was freed on 24 September. While difficulties are estimated at UIAA 8-/8, there is precious little in-situ gear: just one peg at the belays and a mere 7 in-situ pegs and 2 bird beaks along the pitches. Auer sums it up as follows "Technically it was not very hard, but mentally super challenging to open the pitches and to climb into the unknown. Falling was not an option."





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