Gabriele Moroni sends 9a at Arco
The other day close at Arco, Italy Gabriele Moroni repeated the sports climb Bio-Logiko 9a.
Yet another 9a for Gabriele Moroni, the Italian climber who just the other day made the first repeat of Bio-Logiko, a route freed last year by Adam Ondra close to Arco. Comprised of a hard section in the first 5 metres - an 8A+ boulder problem - the route is subsequently followed by 8b+ stamina climbing and Moroni managed to send the route in poor conditions, proving his worth once again.
"I reckon it's my first 9a in Italy" Moroni wrote to Planetmountain. Apart from having climbed a long list of 8c+/9a in questo paese, he has also redpointed a host of 9a in Spain, China and Germany, more precisely in the Frankenjura where in a mere 5 days last September he repeated three 9a's, The Elder Statesman, Sever the Wicked Hand and Classified.
Moroni is currently preparing for a short trip to Spain's bouldering eldorado Albarracin, after which he will head straight to a superb project that has proven a tough nut to crack: Goldrake, the 9a+ freed (once again) by Adam Ondra at Cornalba in 2010. A beautiful line, intensely technical up tiny crimps that require perfect physical form and pristine conditions...