Fabrizio Peri and Jolly Lamberti redpoint new 8c+ at Grotti, Italy

Grotti has become half a grade harder. The superb crag close to Rome now has its first 8c+, "Debolezza e disonore" thanks to the extremely talented and little-known Roman climber Fabrizio Peri. After the first ascent at the start of October the crag local Alessandro Jolly Lamberti began attempting "Weakness and shame" and quickly repeated it yesterday, confirming the grade. Jolly's ascent is also confirmation of his amazing form for at 46 years young, he's still as keen as 30 years ago...


Debolezza e disonore by Alessandro Jolly Lamberti

"Debolezza e disonore" was bolted last year by Fabrizio Peri, nicknamed "il Finanziere", who after having quickly repeated "Die hard" 8c was motivated to try something more difficult.

Fabrizio managed to free the route at the start of October and I quickly managed to repeat it. It's located at "Il Canile", one of the most beautiful and less frequented sectors in Grotti. This has been bolted primarily by Roberto Ciato and Mati and offers some very steepp and physical routes.

In fact, compared to those at Grotti alta and bassa, this new route is far longer and more overhanging, its 45° steep throughout and follows a line of monodoits and two finger pockets. At present it's the hardest route at Grotti and of the various projects yet to be freed there is of course my decade old "Ultimo tango", a possible 9a+.