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The historic crag Cimaï close to Toulon, south of France.
Photo by Sam Bié
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Cimaï closed to climbing


The French sports crag Cimai has been closed recently to climbing.

According to the French Federation FFME, climbing at Cimaï has been banned by order of the local town council. Although access problems are linked to potential rockfall at the quarry on the left-hand side, for obvious safety reasons the council has issued a blanket-ban until further notice.

Cimaï is one of France's premier crags, circa 15km NW of Toulon. It hosts about 150 routes and much like nearby Buoux, throughout the 1980's and early '90's sport climbing history was written all over these limestone walls.

Two important ascents stand out more than any others: Antoine Le Menestrel's on-sight of Samizdat in 1987 - which many regard as the world's first on-sight of an 8a - and Lynn Hill's redpoint of Masse Critique in 1991. Lynn's groundbreaking ascent after just nine days of effort was the first time a woman broke into the 8b+ grade and paved the way for her greatest climbs ever, the first free ascent of The Nose in 1993 and her monumental one day free ascent a year later.

For up-to-date access information about Cimaï check out the FFME website.





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