Home page Planetmountain.com
Patrick Matros during the first ascent of Archon, a trad 8b in the Frankenjura, Germany. Photo www.noomrise.com
Photo by Raimund Matros

Archon, 8b trad in Germany's Frankenjura

di

On 06/11/2011 Patrick Matros established Archon, an 8b trad route in the Frankenjura, Germany.

The last time we mentioned the Frankenjura, we talked about Chasin the Trane greenpoint, i.e. the ascent of an established sports route without the bolts but with trad gear only. This time our attention was grabbed by Archon, where the game is similar but with an important difference: this trad route is completely new, no bolts can be skipped and the confirmed difficulty is a whopping 8b.

Archon is located at the Circus Maximus crag and was freed on 6 November by Patrick Matros who obviously placed all the camming devices and nuts during the ascent, with no gear pre-placed. Repeated quickly and confirmed by Alexander Megos, the route is a direct variation to another trad route, Vernissage 8a+ freed in 2003 by Philipp Warda.

Share

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria
  • Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem
    la cascata è stata salita nel 97 da carlotti e compagni. r ...
    2015-01-06 / francesco lamo