The Boxer, new ice climb up Monte Pandoro in Molise
On 28/03/2014 Riccardo Quaranta and Claudio Di Rienzo made the first ascent of The Boxer, a new mixed route upMonte Pandoro (Monte Miletto, Matese mountain chain), Molise, Italy.
Making the most of the last flurry of snow and the temperature down to zero, Claudio and I decided for a final blitz on Monte Pandoro. The line wasn't extreme but given the favorable orientation it remains in condition for quite a while. In fact, a quick check at my archive photos shows that it forms as early as autumn and stays covered in snow to the end of spring. Given its length, The Boxer is an ideal outing that can be climbed after having done one of the many other routes on Pandoro and Miletto; apart from its short height, climbers will certainly enjoy the somewhat "Scottish" sensations that the Matese classics are famous for.
by Riccardo Quaranta
NE Face Pandoro (M. Miletto), 2040m
55m, D+ M4 80° max.
First ascent: 28/03/2014 Riccardo Quaranta and Claudio Di Rienzo
Access: Reach the ski resort. The North Face of Monte Miletto (visibile from the car park) is reached in circa one hour by ascending the Anfiteatro piste. To reach the start of the route check out the topo, after having ascended not without difficulty the steep snow slope.
Time: 50 minutes for the route
Description: P1 (55m, 75-80° max) Ascend the extremely steep snow slope and belay close to a small cave (bolt, thread, can be backed up). From this belay traverse left to climb up the slab past mixed climbing (M4, 75-80°) difficult to protect (hooking useful). Easier climbing leads past packed snow and frozen turf to the right of the rocky rib. From here, the final metres tend slightly right to then exit up mixed terrain, via technical but never extreme moves.
Descent: From the Pandoro summit, facing the valley, continue left along to the crest for circa 50m to reach an obvious col that leads to a snowy gully. Downclimb this and after circa 50m return to the start of the climb, on the right (facing the valley).
15/02/2013 - Febbre da Cavallo, new dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese