Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête

Climbing rope-solo last Wednesday and Thursday, Simon Gietl completed the first ascent of the exposed arête of the North-West Pillar of Peitlerkofel, the huge peak that dominates the Würzjoch / Passo delle Erbe pass in South Tyrol, Italy.

The route chosen by the 37-year-old alpinist is certainly one of the most logical lines on the entire mountain, just to to the right of the Direttissima established in 1968 by the brothers Günther and Reinhold Messner, and surprisingly it had never been completed in the past.

In truth, over the years it had been attempted on several occasions, in particular by Djego Zanesco and Hubert Noederwolfsgruber who circa fifteen years ago had managed to make significant headway in the yellow section of Dolomite rock before being forced to retreat. Strangely, it seems as if no other attempts were made on the line that towers above the Malga Munt de Fornella hut, while in 2018 Harald Mair and Christof Ursch established their Nordwind immediately to the right of the arête.

After a day of reconnaissance, Gietl set off on his own last Wednesday and, climbing rope-solo, he bivouacked on the face and topped out the next day "exhausted but infinitely happy." The route is protected by a mix of bolts and pegs dating back to the first attempts 15 years ago, while new ground explored by Gietl has only pegs and trad gear.

Peitlerkofel is becoming increasingly important to Gietl; in January 2019 he established Kalipe with Mark Oberlechner, while last March he made a daring solo winter ascent of the classic Hruschka.

More details of the completion of the NW Arête will follow in due course.

Simon Gietl thanks: Salewa, Neolit, Grivel, Komperdell, Keaxl-Board, Hotel Schwarzenstein, Lyo-Foot,  Südtirol, Lowa, Gloryfy

Links: FB Simon Gietl, www.simongietl.it