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Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera on the summit of Cerro Mariposa on 16/03/2017 after having forged a new route up the mountain's NE Face in two days.
Photo by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera
Luca Schiera making the first ascent of a new route with Paolo Marazzi on 15-16/03/2017 up the NE Face of Nordest del Cerro Mariposa in Patagonia.
Photo by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera
Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera at the bivouac during the first ascent of their new route on 15-16/03/2017 up the NE Face of Nordest del Cerro Mariposa in Patagonia.
Photo by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera
The return from Cerro Mariposa down the river Rio Turbio in inflatable canoes
Photo by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera
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Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi & Luca Schiera climb new route up Cerro Mariposa

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On 15 and 16 March 2017 the two Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi established a new route up Cerro Mariposa in Patagonia.

"We spent 25 days in the Turbio valley waiting for the right conditions that practically never came, except right at the end when a tiny weather window allowed us to climb the SE Face of Mariposa!" This is how Italian mountaineer Paolo Marazzi announced the new route he and Luca Schiera forged up Cerro Mariposa, a huge peak in the remote Rio Turbio valley on the border between Chile and Argentina in northern Patagonia.

At present there are few details about the ascent, apart from Marazzi’s final comment "900 really cool meters. An adventure which included falling off a horse, rowing an inflatable canoe without knowing a thing about canoeing, long reads and exceptionally beautiful places."

The new climb is located to the left of the first route up the face, La Vuelta de los Condores (700m, 5.11 A2), established by the Canadians Will Stanhope, Marc-Andre Leclerc and Paul McSorley and America’s Matt Van Biene in January 2014. The video of that ascent is posted below to give an idea about the wild beauty of this corner of Patagonia.

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