Monte Vigna Vaga: new North Face climb

The north face of Mount Vigna Vaga has always been both mysterious and fascinating. Those who know the area always told me no one had ever climbed up there before. This was of no importance though, because for me it was certainly my first time up on the mountain and I knew nothing about what lay in store. Climbing this peak was not only important from a mountaineering point of view, more importantly, I’m tied to it emotionally as my wife was born in its shadow and lived there for most of her life.

The “Thermal disaster" that gripped the Orobie Alps recently couldn’t have been a better Christmas present, creating dangerous but also spectacular conditions for winter climbing, with unique geometric ice formations. However, these beautiful conditions are almost completely impossible to protect, in particular with ice screws. What remains is the rock, either friable or almost entirely encrusted with ice, meaning that the belays are somewhat precarious and the long pitches without any decent pro. I dedicate this ascent to “MAMMA" my wife and the mother of our children and also to all mothers worldwide who’s daily work is of inestimable value!

I’d like to thank my friend Marco from Tezzi Alti, a village at the start of the wonderful and wild Val Sedornia and the limestone peak Vigna Vaga, so fascinating in winter. It’s thanks to him that years ago I began to dream about this climb…


by Valentino Cividini



TOPO: Monte Vigna Vaga, Alpi Orobie Bergamasche


Link: FB Valentino Cividini, valentinocividini-blog.blogspot.it