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The north face of Mt. Alberta, Rockies, Canada (3619m), with the line of the new House -Anderson WI5+ M8 R/X, 1000m).
Photo by Vince Anderson
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House and Anderson climb new route on Mt. Alberta, Canada


The Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House have opened a new route up the north face of Mt. Alberta (3619m), Rockies, Canada. The due climbed alpine style for three days and graded their new line WI5+ M8 R/X.

The winning duo Vince Anderson – Steve House (the two who forged a new line up Nanga Parbat in 2005 which earned them a Piolet d’Or) have just carried out an interesting first ascent up the north face of Mt. Alberta (3619m) in the Canadian Rockies.

According to Alpinist, the two Americans spent three days on the route, from 26 to 28 March, too late to be included in the official winter calendar but perfectly in time for prime snow and ice on the entire face. House and Anderson chose a line to the right of the Lowe – Glidden, climbing 1000m of mixed terrain which resulted in two bivvies and a grade of WI5+ M8 R/X.

The new route is only the third up the entire face which, given its demanding and committing nature, very rarely sees any ascents at all. It’s almost superfluous to say that the two climbed in alpine-style.

Follow this link for our details of the Nanga Parbat ascent, or check out the Alpinist website for a full Mt. Alberta report.





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