Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard

On 17 March 2016 the alpinists Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard have made the first ascent of Aller Simple pour Mars, a difficult new mixed climb up the Pic de l’Aurore face at Percé, Canada graded M7+ WI7- 190m.
1 / 4
Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard making the first ascent of Aller simple pour Mars (M7+ WI7- 190m) on the Pic de l'Aurore face at Percé, Canada
Dany Julien

French Canadian alpinists Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard have established a tough four-pitch mixed outing up the imposing looking Pic de l’Aurore face close to the fishing village Percé on the Gaspé peninsula on the east coast of Canada.

In 2015 the duo visited the area to repeat Moby Dick (WI5+ M7), the "futuristic and high standard line" established in 2001 by prolific climbers Bernard Maillot and their late friend Benoit Marion. The attempt was thwarted when the bolts suddenly ran out on pitch 2, and after retreating and studying photos they came to the conclusion that a 50m wide sheet of rock had simply peeled away into the Atlantic ocean.

Closer comparison of new and old photographs revealed an independent new line close to Moby Dick and the two then returned on 17 March. Armed with courage "like a viking quitting home for a raid" they then embarked up their new line. Girard explains "Carl led the first thin and really long first pitch(80-85m) , finishing with overhanging mushroom. I went for the second, a technical traverse on loose rock and thin rock/ice placements capped by 10-15m of overhanging  pink ice petal and blobs.  The third pitch is a mind blowing pillar, starting with an overhang move on a broken column, followed by a puzzle of mushroom, hollow and thin ice with delicate placements and dodgy screws.

The new route Aller simple pour Mars has been graded M7+ WI7- 190m and is dedicated to Benoit Marion, who died in November 2015 aged 41 in a car crash.

17/04/2014 - St Alban, dry tooling in Québec, Canada
Jean-François Girard introduces the dry tooling crag St Alban, Québec, Canada.




Latest news


Expo / News


Expo / Products
Approach shoes with Vibram MegaGrip sole with IBS and Climbing Zone
A revolutionary directional carabiner connector with automatic clamping action
Softshell jacket man Karpos Odle Fleece
Men's climbing harness with fast adjustment
Crag climbing backpack with top and back panel easy access to the main compartment and lots of cool features.
Travel and leisure shoes
Show products