Home page Planetmountain.com
Photo by Stefano Valsecchi & Giorgio Travaglia
Heading towards the Segantini crest
Photo by Stefano Valsecchi & Giorgio Travaglia
On the Segantini ridge
Photo by Stefano Valsecchi & Giorgio Travaglia
On the ridge
Photo by Stefano Valsecchi & Giorgio Travaglia

Cresta Segantini, what a love. By Ivo Ferrari


Ivo Ferrari and Cresta Segantini: the ascent of the Grignetta west ridge, beautiful in both summer and winter.

Perhaps it' s a bit too early to feel the cold, to yearn for freezing temperatures, maybe though it's never too soon, every desire comes at just the right time, and if it comes early, you need to know how to wait...

I read the following:

"Grigna Meridionale - southern Grigna - located a short distance from Lake Lecco, combined with nearby Grigna Settentrionale - northern Grigna (or Grignone) is definitely very popular amongst climbers from the Lombardy region thanks to the countless climbs of all difficulties. Among these, the ascent of the Grignetta West ridge ("Cresta Segantini") is certainly the most famous and popular due to its length, difficulty and truly impressive setting. Both in summer as in winter.
From Colle Valsecchi (1898m) it presents itself as slender, split by several towers pinnacles, each with their own name, separated by steep canyons. Despite the difficulties never exceed the grade IV, the exposure on some sections, environment and overal length make this a true "mountain" climb.
The first descent of the ridge, by Giacomo Casati (solo), dates back to 13/03/1901. This was followed by other exploration attempts from below and another descent by Giuseppe Dorn, until the first integral ascent: Eugenio Moraschini and Giuseppe Clerici on 09/10/1905 who named the climb in honour of the famous expressionist painter."


The same handhold... grabbed dozens of times, pulled with the power gained in training, through habit and, with fatigue when "things don't work", that very same hold, welcoming in summer, ice cold in winter...

What could be more beautiful, after an August filled with rock climbing, sun and warm days, to yearn for some cold! Tonight, as I chopped the firewood, my thoughts led me to my favorite ridge, I heard the screech of crampons hit icy rock, felt the pain that makes you curse when blood returns to hard, insensitive fingers... What is this desire for winter? Well first of all it's the most beautiful crest in Lombardy, and despite knowing every single hold I always find myself somewhere completely different. Just a (long) stone's throw from home there's a stairway to heaven, a famous climb that in the cold season becomes the cleanest and most beautiful line I know. I like following it, alone or with friends, I enjoy being away from the hustle and bustle and, at the same time, complicating things!

"The head torch illuminates my steps, I feel the cold air enter through the cuffs of my jacket, down the neck, into the lungs with every breath. I'm alone, the moon lights up the ridge, transforming it into a huge, perfect picture frame. I puff hard, I've been trying to exit it for the last hour, I've never tried it in the dark, but... "You need to give everything a go" and I'm doing exactly that, trying, and after a short I literally fall onto Lingua, the tongue, that completely frozen sheet of of white. The expensive edges enter with pleasure, bite and provide safety, I speed up, feel less tired. Being used to artificial light begins to bear fruit, giving me pleasure.

I get on and I find myself talking to nothing, I get it I can not remember where they are, I do not care where they are, because it is the gesture that has taken over, trasportandomi in a thousand different tops, I get the language and are in the Himalayas, I move to the ridge and back in the Alps, every movement is a way that I know or who simply would like to know ... She, the Cresta, does that to me, tonight the darkness mixed with the silence of the night amplifies my "travel" .. . The becche gently leaning on the rock, I get up, trying not to stoop too fast ! The double boots to keep your feet warm, but I promised to treat them well, hot spots and well protected."

I'd like to return to the ridge every day, to train for nothing in particular, to train for the sake of it... A deafening noise brings me back to reality, after having felled the tree I've now hit a stone! The teeth make sparks fly, I've just killed the chainsaw! I return home, I've got enough firewood, chainsaw in hand and... the strong desire for winter...

A big THANK YOU to Stefano Valsecchi and Giorgio Travaglia for the beautiful pictures.

21/08/2013 - By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago
05/08/2013 - Mysterious Dolomites: Gianni Ribaldone on Spiz di Mezzo
01/08/2013 - The Sunflower of the Dolomites: Pilastro Girasole on Cimòn della Pala
29/07/2013 - La Perla Nascosta on Sass On Ortiga by Ivo Ferrari
24/07/2013 - Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
09/07/2013 - Alpinists who make the difference: via Stenghel at Torre d'Ambiez by Ivo Ferrari
01/07/2013 - Alta Val Masino and Venti Polari di Ivo Ferrari
12/04/2013 - Sperlonga, rock climbing, memories and beauty by Ivo Ferrari
03/01/2013 - Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria