Home page Planetmountain.com
François Cazzanelli establishing Il Sole di Mezzogiorno, Singlin, Valtournenche, Valle d'Aosta
Photo by Nicolò Bongiorno
Nicolò Bongiorno making the first ascent of Il Sole di Mezzogiorno, Singlin, Valtournenche, Valle d'Aosta
Photo by François Cazzanelli
François Cazzanelli and Nicolò Bongiorno making the first ascent of Il Sole di Mezzogiorno, Singlin, Valtournenche, Valle d'Aosta
Photo by François Cazzanelli
Making the first ascent of Il Sole di Mezzogiorno, Singlin, Valtournenche, Valle d'Aosta
Photo by François Cazzanelli

Alpinism in Valtournenche: new mixed climb by Cazzanelli & Buongiorno

di

On the Singlin rock face in Valtournenche (Valle d’Aosta, Italy) François Cazzanelli and Nicolò Buongiorno have established a new mixed climb called Il Sole di Mezzogiorno (150m, M5, 6a)

Certain lines, you know, need to be climbed immediately. In particular if they are mixed outings, because they might be here today and gone tomorrow. There’s an obvious corner that splits the Singlin rock face in the Aosta Valley, and for the last couple of years I’ve been figuring out how to climb it. This striking line seperates a compact section, which hosts some summer multi pitches, from its more jagged and discontinuous righthand side which hosts different climbing sectors.

On 6 January I teamed up with my good friend and longtime climbing partner Nicolò Bongiorno as we’d planned to climb an icefall. The recent rise in temperatures didn’t bode well, nevertheless we decided to check out what was in condition in the Valtourneche valley. As we drove out of the tunnel at Singlin I glanced up as usual at the corner, but this time something made me stop. Thanks to the heavy snowfall the route seems in excellent condition and I immediately realised the time had come to give it a go.

Nico agreed and we scoped it out through our binoculars. It was warm but cloudy, snow was forecast in the evening, so I was sure the wall wouldn’t receive the sun all day long. We racked up and started to wade our way to the base of the route; had there been no snow we’d have been up there in no time, but with all that deep snow the approach proved complicated. We started climbing below the most obvious section and the route turned out to be fun but, unfortunately, difficult to protect. Thankfully I’m fairly experienced at climbing on the Valtourneche serpentine rock and I knew what I was letting myself in for.

The first two pitches ran smoothly while the third, despite being technically easier, proved difficult to protect (3 friends in 50 meters). The last pitch was the crux. Because of the poor ice I broke out from the corner, climbed past an arête and then tackled some steep rock. From there I returned to the corner that continued easily for a few meters before narrowing up towards the end. Some random sections led to a big tree where the difficulties ceased and we finished the climb.

Wrapped in fog and then beneath light snowfall we established the abseil belays and rappelled to the base of the route. Tired, soaked to the bone but happy we celebrated with a well-deserved slice of cake and cup of chocolate that immediately made us feel better again.

I would like to thank Nicolò for his tenacity and enthusiasm on this little adventure.


by François Cazzanelli

TOPO: Il Sole di Mezzogiorno, Singlin, Valtournenche

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
06.02.2017
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
On 20 and 21 January 2017 François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti and Jules Pession (Cervino mountain guides) made the first ascents of 'Livello Inferiore' and 'Nuovi Orizzonti', two new mixed routes in Valtournenche. Francesco Ratti reports.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria