Home page Planetmountain.com
During the first ascent of Red Devils up the NW Face of Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc (Jeff Mercier, David Autheman, Lucien Boucansaud, Gérémy Rakowski)
Photo by Jeff Mercier
During the first ascent of Red Devils up the NW Face of Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc (Jeff Mercier, David Autheman, Lucien Boucansaud, Gérémy Rakowski)
Photo by Jeff Mercier
During the first ascent of Red Devils up the NW Face of Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc (Jeff Mercier, David Autheman, Lucien Boucansaud, Gérémy Rakowski)
Photo by Jeff Mercier
Red Devils up the NW Face of Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc (Jeff Mercier, David Autheman, Lucien Boucansaud, Gérémy Rakowski)
Photo by Jeff Mercier
INFO / links & info:

Aiguille du Midi new mixed climb by Jeff Mercier & Co

di

French alpinists Jeff Mercier, David Autheman, Lucien Boucansaud and Gérémy Rakowski have completed Red Devils, a new route up the NW Face of Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc massif, France.

French mountain guide Jeff Mercier has successfully added an interesting new mixed climb to the NW Face of the Aiguille du Mid in the Mont Blanc massif. Called Red Devils, the new route was climbed in two separate attempts.

On 16 May Mercier teamed up with Lucien Boucansaud and Gérémy Rakowski and, after a bivy at Plan de l’Aiguille, began climbing at 4:30am on the 17th of May. Mercier told planetmountain.com “The climbing was harder than expected, and in the end there wasn’t enough time to climb the upper wall, because all of us have to go to work the day after. So, we chose to finish via the West couloir and where this ends cross leftwards to find the exit ridge of the Carli Chassagne route.

Mercier returned for a second attempt on 23 May with David Autheman. The two spent the night at the Cosmique hut and, after waking up at 3am, down climbed Glacier Rond and the traversed across this to reach the West Couloir. After sharing circa 150m of this, they then proceeded along the steep upper section of the face. This contained 90° mixed climbing graded M7, before finishing up grade 4+/5 rock for a pitch and a half. Mercier estimates the new route will take about 15 hours if climbed in a single day.

As to the name, Mercier explained "while I was the packing my bag for the 2nd attempt I was watching TV and heard about the terrible bomb in Manchester. Red devils is the name given to players of the Manchester United football team, but it’s also the name we could give to all those guys who kill children…"


A post shared by Jeffmercier (@jeffmercier74) on


Share

NEWS / Related news:
Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc
10.01.2017
Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc
Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the North face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.
Universal Studio, new mixed climb on Rognon du Plan (Mont Blanc) by Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan
20.05.2016
Universal Studio, new mixed climb on Rognon du Plan (Mont Blanc) by Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan
On 5 May 2016 Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan made the first ascent of 'Universal Studio', a new mixed climb graded M8/650m on Rognon du Plan (3601m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France.
Aiguille d'Argentière, new Mont Blanc rock climb by Vincent Fournier and Jeff Mercier
24.08.2015
Aiguille d'Argentière, new Mont Blanc rock climb by Vincent Fournier and Jeff Mercier
On 15/07/2015 Vincent Fournier and Jeff Mercier made the first ascent of "Efareb", 1200m / 6b+ max. up South Face of Aiguille d’Argentière (3901m), Mont Blanc massif.
Aiguille du Plan, first free ascent of the Bonington - Tejada-Flores corner by Pesce and Mercier
15.04.2014
Aiguille du Plan, first free ascent of the Bonington - Tejada-Flores corner by Pesce and Mercier
On 10/04/2014 Jeff Mercier and Corrado Pesce made the first free acent of the huge corner on the route established by Chris Bonington and Lito Tejada-Flores on 28 - 29 July 1965 up the West Face of Aiguille du Plan, Mont Blanc.
Full Love... for dry and ice, Peigne alpine testpiece by Desecures, Griffith, Pesce and Mercier
22.10.2012
Full Love... for dry and ice, Peigne alpine testpiece by Desecures, Griffith, Pesce and Mercier
On 17-18/10/2012 Julien Desecures, Jon Griffith, Corrado Pesce, Jeff Mercier made the first ascent of Full love... for dry and ice (V, 5+,M6 R, 500m) up Aiguille du Peigne, Mont Blanc range.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria