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Vertical-Life.info
The Passo Gardena links two Dolomite valleys of dramatic beauty, the Val Gardena and the Val Badia. Whoever took the mountain road to cross the pass, knows exactly what it feels like to look up at the steep walls of the Meisules, driving underneath by car. Coming from Val Gardena, just below the pass on the right side you will notice a cliff of particularly compact dolomite, this is the crag of Frea.
There are more than hundred routes here, half of them grade six on the french scale, all of them promising fun and excitement. The climbing is mostly on vertical rock and partially on slabs with huecos and pockets. But there are also some more difficult lines for ambitious climbers, the seventh grade is well represented by about 20 routes. The cherry on top of the cake are the multi-pitch routes for those who want to get some fresh air underneath their feet!
Frea consists of 5 different sectors, all within very short distance from another. Two of them can only be reached via a short via ferrata or by climbing up two pitches from the lower sectors.
From Chiusa or Ponte Gardena drive into Val Gardena. Continue towards Passo Sella and Passo Gardena, passing the villages of Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva di Val Gardena. At the intersection go left following the road to Passo Gardena. The road leads up through turns, before it flattens out. At the end of the flat section there is a parking bay on the right side. You can either park here or leave the car on Passo Gardena. From Val Pusteria drive into Val Badia. Continue to Corvara and from there to Passo Gardena. From the pass, drive down towards Gardena. After a few turns, the road begins to flatten out and you will see a parking bay on the left side, where you can leave the car. Many times these parking spots will be occupied.
Access: From the parking lot walk up a path which leads directly to the base of the well visible wall. From Passo Gardena walk down along the road until you reach the path which leads up left directly to the wall.
June - September. The crag is located at an altitude of circa 2200m.
NotesThe use of a helmet is recommended as two sectors are located exactly above two of the other sectors. Those climbing in the upper sectors should always be clipped in to the steel cable of the via ferrata.
BibliographySportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
54 crags in the Dolomites, in 3 languages (German, Italian, English) by Vertical-Life.info, 2013
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Schattenblume | 22m | |
6a |
| 2 | Felsnelke | 100m | |
6b+ |
| 5 tiri / 5 pitches | ||||
| 3 | Herbstzeitlose | 18m | |
6b |
| 4 | Arnika | 20m | |
6b |
| 5 | Bergdistel | 20m | |
6c |
| 6 | Himmelsleiter | 18m | |
7a |
| 1° tiro / 1st pitch | ||||
| 7 | Blaustern | 20m | |
7b |
| 1° tiro / 1st pitch | ||||
| 8 | Rapunzel | 20m | |
7b+ |
| 9 | Teufelskralle | 20m | |
7c+ |
| 1° tiro / 1st pitch | ||||
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