Nicholas Hobley
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Bassilandia, Arco
Nicholas Hobley
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6b+ - 8b
Height
30m
Routes number
47
Rock type
Compact grey limestone, crimps and tufas.
Orientation
East
Rope
70m rope


Bassilandia is a beautiful crag dedicated to the late Roberto Bassi, located above romantic Lake Toblino and surprisingly never too crowded. Developed initially by Fabio Leoni, the untiring local describes it as follows:

"I began to bolt Bassilandia on my own, risking a fair bit since it's part of a biotope. After having established numerous routes and pruned the trees perfectly in accordance with the forest warden, seeing the crag's potential I asked for help fro other climbers, including Rolando Larcher, Michele Cagol, Guido Dalfovo and Marco Curti, who all helped create one of the most best crags in the Sarca Valley.

Before I bolted the crag there were two routes, one which climbed the giant tufa (with some chipped holds...) and one on the slab by unknown climbers. The hardest pitches were equipped and freed by Guido Dalfovo, a talented climber with fingers of steel.

The crag offers technical and sustained climbing on a 30m high face and, apart from the extremely hot summer months it's possible to climb all year round, by either following or avoiding the sun. Watch out for the car park below, as thieves often operate here: don't leave anything in the car, or park at Sarche. From here a short walk, which starts from the garage close to a large tree, leads in 15/20 minutes to the crag."

Access

From Arco take the SS45bis towards Trento, circa 1 km after Sarca park on the left in the layby, beneath the barrier which protects against falling rocks and before reaching the castle. Take the path which starts from the protection barrier and ascend quickly to reach another path which coasts the hillside. Follow this rightwards for about 400m, then turn up left following red markers to reach the crag.

Logistics

Hotels, B&B's and camping in Arco.

Period

Climbing is possible in summer after 15.00, while in winter climbing is possible in the morning only.

Climb

The climbing is both technical and sustained.

Notes

Not ideal for families as a narrow ledge runs along the entire crag. Equipped by M. Cagol, L. Celva, M. Curti, G. Dalfovo, R. Larcher, F. Leoni

Bibliography

"Arco Arrampicate dal Lago di Garda al Brenta" by Michael Meisl, Martin Lochner
Arco Rock by Versante Sud




Sectors

Arco - Bassilandia
Routes from left to right. The path leads to the middle of the crag, just to the left of the obvious tufa Extra terrestre. The first 7 routes are located circa 5 minutes to the left of the crag proper.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 El gordo 23m 7c+
2 El flaco 25m 7c/7c+
3 L'Abuelito 28m 7c
4 Ophelia 25m 7b
5 Markos 25m 7a+
6 Nebraska 25m 6b+
7 Kirkuk 25m 7a
8 I Gag men 25m 7a+
9 Anathema 25m 7b
10 Phoenix 25m 7a+
11 X pile 25m 7b
12 6 Marzo 20m 6a
13 Adalpina 30m 6c+
14 Sapori di Lagolo 28m 6c+
15 Su e giù 28m 7a/b
16 Il patto 28m 6c+
17 Nix is nicht 40m 6b+, 8a
18 Frisco 28m 7c
19 Cerutti Gino 28m 8a
20 Tsunami 28m 7c+/8a
21 Mohammed Califfa 28m 7c+/8a
22 E' chiove 28m 7c
23 L'andalopiteco 28m 8a+
24 Extra terrestre 25m 7a, 8a
25 Willy coyote 25m 6c+
26 Da zanca a zanca 30m 7c
27 PKK 30m 8b+
28 Bod pa 28m 7c
29 Goganga 25m 7c/7c+
30 Il signor G 25m 7c
31 Qui resting 25m 7c+
32 Quo vadis 25m 7b
33 Progetto ?
34 Progetto ?
35 Diedrin voll 28m 7b+
36 Messico e nuvole 25m 7a+
37 Guido sul muschio 25m 8a
38 Cucciolo d'uomo 25m 7a
39 Il mare calmo 22m 7a+
40 Mad Wall 22m 7c+
41 Trutta bianca blu 22m 7b+
42 Giamaica 20m 7a/b
43 Tim 20m 7a+
44 Gong-ho 20m 7b
45 Brillantina 15m 6c+
46 Novecento 15m 7a
47 Crotalo Wall 15m 7a





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