Le non-sens et la joie
Scheda via a cura di: Arnaud Petit & Jeff Arnoldi
Area: Corsica Gruppo: Cascioni Cima: Capu Cascioni Stato: Francia Regione: Corsica
Bellissima via aperta dal basso che uno splendido granito rosso e strapiombante.
L1: 50 m, 6c+ *
Loose rock but safe gear in the hard section. Start without protections up 20m of easy terrain towards a slab (one bolt). Climb though it (Enterre mon cœur goes left) and then up the corner (3 bolts). The belay is on the obvious slab up left.
L2: 40 m 7a+ or 7b ***
Commiting and technical face climbing. Start up a weird chossy corner (place two small cams before the bolt). Climb left towards a small roof under which it is possible to place some gear before committing into the slab towards a bolt. Pass the bolt (crux) and make it to a large flake, sitting on a ledge. Go carefully around this flake from the left to reach an easy corner. From there, follow the cracks towards the belay (the second C#2 is only useful for this last section).
L3: 40 m 7c+ maybe 8a ****
World class. Hard face then classic roof climbing on gear. Exhilarating finish. Mind the rope-drag.
Start up a crack above the belay, place a C#3 if you have it, and proceed though 15m of sustained face climbing (5 bolts). Under the obvious roof, place some cams and climb slightly to the right using a crack towards a flake (one pre-placed nut). Place a C#0,5 (or smaller) and fire through the lip and into the final wall (7m to the ledge).
L4: 30 m 7c maybe 7c+ ****
Steep sustained climbing on slopers and cracks.
Place a small cam just above the belay to reach the first bolt. Follows a hard section (3 bolts total) leading to a small bulk in which it is possible to place some small cams. Mantle past it to a ledge (rusty piton). Go left (1 bolt) towards the « radiator » easy to protect but hard to climb (final crux).
L5: 35 m 7b+ ****
Climbs though a series of steep walls on slopers. Superb and committing.
Traverse 5m to the left before heading strait up for 15m. After about 10m an Al-g or T-b is essential to protect the first committing crux, leading to a ledge. Traverse right until standing right above the belay. Climb strait up, placing some safe gear before commiting into the head wall (crux). The last section is easer and leads to the left of the « nose ».
L6: 35 m 6c+ ***
« The nose ». A short section on inverted flakes leads to the pillar above the nose. Build a belay just before the grassy ledges or use the rappel anchor on the left (note its location for the way down).
L7: 50 m 5c *
Scramble towards a steep corner on the right. Climb past the rappel anchor towards a large tree on the main ledge.
L8 - L12 : Enterre mon cœur
L8 *, 6a, 10 m to the right of the tree, a fractured corner (small cams, one rusty piton) leads to the start of P9.
L9 **** 7a+, 50 m. Beautiful pitch on rusty bolts. A few cams can be useful (C#0,75 C#1 ). The rappel anchor is on the left of the ledge.
L10 ** 30 m spits, 7a+ maybe 7b. Bolted.
L11 *** : 40 m, 6b+ then 5c. Bolted.
L12 ** : 40 m, 6a, Bolted.
Ringraziamenti: Agnès Leclerc, Morgane Choquet and Guillaume Touzet for helping us carrying our gear, Thierry Souchard (breakfast, beers, cheese) Vlado Linsky (ideas for future ascents and directions to his near-by newly developed sport climbing wall), Pierre Pietri (for suggesting this wall to Arnaud, 20 years ago).
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