Jeef - Punta di U Corbu
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Maurizio Oviglia
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Maurizio Oviglia
Significantly harder than Dos de l’éléphant, Jeef is a masterpiece in terms of beauty and the demanding nature of its climbing - photos of the route have been published in magazines worldwide. 6b is obligatory and potential repeaters should master this grade with ease. A set of camming devices is highly recommended to integrate the run-outs. The third pitch is known to being morphological. The final section joins up with the Elefante and reaches the summit of Punta U Corbu by climbing 4 pitches first ascended by the Petit brothers in 1993. From the summit abseil down Delicatessen via a series of impressive and complicated abseils.
From Solenzara take the road towards. After Bocca di Larone (608 m), the view opens onto the beautiful granite towers. Continue to the bridge at Polischellu and park the car here.
AccessDo not follow the path on the right (hydrographic left) which leads to Teghie Lisce, but follow a track along the other bank. Keep as close as possible to the river and, when you reach a reddish rock face (circa 30 minutes from the bridge) ascend up a dry river bed to the base of an obvious rounded pillar (1.15 hours)
DescentFrom the top of Delicatessen (south face). The descent is demanding; diagonal and overhanging, clip the quickdraws during you abseil to remain close to the rock (50m ropes, prussik indispensable).
Gear12 quickdraws, friends 0,5,2 e 3 indispensable, double 50m x 9mm ropes, a selection of nuts. The route is equipped with 10mm bolts.
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Jeef è una di quelle vie in cui alla fine di ogni lunghezza pensi: "questo potrebbe essere il più bel tiro che ho mai scalato su granito!" ... per poi essere puntualmente smentito al tiro successivo! Noi l'abbiamo salita fino al Dos De l'Elephant e l'abbiamo trovata continua sulle difficoltà medie dichiarate e mai estrema (se si escludono i due passi eventualmente facilmente azzerabili), chiodata bene dove non ci si protegge diversamente, molto godibile e divertente. Friend BD dal viola al rosso potrebbero tornare utili. Salita nel maggio 2024.