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Luna Nascente

First ascent: Antonio Boscacci, Mirella Ghezzi, Graziano Milani; 3/09/1978.
By: Andrea Gaddi, taken from the guidebook Masino Bregaglia, Regno del granito
Area: Bernina Alps, Group: Masino - Bregaglia, Peak: Scoglio delle Metamorfosi, Height: 1100m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Luna Nascente can rightly be considered a true pearl of the Alps, an absolutely fantastic route in Val di Mello. A beautiful perfect series of cracks and flakes on fantastic rock which has few equals in the rest of Europe. Many agree that this is one of the most beautiful climbs in the curriculum of any climber. Luna Nascente was the second route to be established on this face.

GETTING THERE

From Milan take the SS36 towards Sondrio-Tirano. At the village Ardenno (after Morbegno), head up into Val Masino. From here a typical moutnain road leads in 15 minutes to San Martino, the starting point for all climbs in Val di Mello.

ROUTE

P1: ascend to the small overhang; breach this via a chimney on the left which leads to a belay beneath the large flake (VII; 20m)
P2: climb a section of the chimney on the left, then head right and follow all the beautiful crack-lined roof to its end. Belay immediately after the roof (VII-; 20m)
P3: follow the beautiful crack and, after this bears right, traverse to quickly reach a short ledge (V+; 30m)
Pitches 2 and 3 are usually joined into one pitch to avoid to uncomfortable belay above the roof.
P4: continue up the cracks above and then along the flake and crack. Belay on the spike on the right (VI; 40m)
P5: climb the weathered slab and continue past the small roof by avoiding this on the right; follow the cracks above to reach the terrace (VI-; 40m)
P6: climb the cracks and shallow corner to reach the half-moon roof (l’Occhio del falco - the falcon's eye); traverse left to the slings (spike); descend to reach the flake and then continue up left up hidden cracks; climb these to the pulpit (VI-; 40m)
P7: ascend the long and beautiful crack to reach the small plant (V; 50m)

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

- Masino Bregaglia, Regno del granito, Volume II, by Andrea Gaddi. Polaris Ed. Sondrio. 2009.
- Solo Granito, Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia. Arrampicate classiche e moderne by Versante Sud

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

April to October

DIFFICULTY

VII

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

VI obligatory

FACE

South

LENGTH

360m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.alpinestudio.it

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