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Surveiller et Punir

First ascent: Jean Marc Troussier, 1981
By: Planetmountain
Area: Provence Alps and pre-Alps, Group: Verdon Gorge, Peak: Gorges du Verdon, Height: 1000m, Country: France, Region: Haute-Provence

Fabulous 7a+ multi-pitch, one of the best and most photographed in the Verdon Gorge, first ascended in 1981 by Jean Marc Troussier. After a gentle first two pitches the route kicks in with a technical 7a+ crux, to finish in style with a sustained and not to be understimated 7a final pitch.

GETTING THERE

From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.

From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes.

ACCESS

Park the car above the belvedere, then reach the Belvedere de l'Escales. Abseil down Frimes et Chatiments (25m, 50m, 45m). The route starts on a small ramp a few meters to the right.

ROUTE

P1: 6b+
P2: 6c
P3: 7a+
P4: 7a

GEAR

Two 60/70m ropes are indespensable. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws.

NOTES

The Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jami

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COMMENTS for the route "Surveiller et Punir"

10-11-2009, Nicholas Hobley
Brilliant route, technical, one of the best of its kind. The crux pitch is tricky but short, the final pitch is technically easier but nevertheless no walk-over.
Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.

DIFFICULTY

7a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c+

FACE

SW

LENGTH

120m

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