Via Andrich - Torre Venezia - Civetta

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Via Andrich: Torre Venezia - Civetta, Dolomites
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
A. Andrich e E. Faè 17/8/1934
Orientation
SW
Length
300m
Height
2337m
Difficulty
V+

Route



Elegant classic route which climbs the arête that divides the west face from the south. This is a pleasant and exposed route up good quality rock, at times excellent, which first climbs the large face, then the obvious beautiful featured corner. The belays are equipped with in-situ pro and the pitches have some pro on them too, nevertheless take a full set of trad gear and Kevlar threads. Well worth a repeat.
Getting there
From Agordo drive to Listolade, then continue up to Capanna Trieste (tel. 0437.660122) and park the car here. Access
Leave the car and walk up to Rifugio Vazzoler (tel. 0437.660008) in circa one hour, then continue towards Rifugio Tissi. Walk past the unmistakable base of Torre Venezia to reach a large alpine meadow (Pian di Pelsa) festooned with boulders. Leave the main path here and take a small track to the right which rises up to the left of the trees. Once at the base of the rocks the path traverses beneath Punta Agordo to a gully which separates this peak from Torre Venezia. Walk up the scree gully to the top and then traverse right along the obvious ledge which crosses the entire wall. Tie in at circa halfway, close to some trees, then continue on for another 40m to reach the first belay with three pegs at the base of the black wall. Descent
Exit from the wall onto the scree ledge beneath the summit, walk left to the north face. A small path leads to a first red marker which signals the descent point. Descend a few meters to a small terrace, equipped with peg and ring. A few 20m and 40m abseils lead to a wide ledge. Follow this left at first, then scramble down a wide gully to another abseil. Exit from the gully on the right and take the small path from the base back to the refuge. Gear
Threads, quickdraws, full set of nuts and medium sized friends for the corner.




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11/09/2012 Nicola Tremolada
test nicola
10/09/2012 Renzo Bragantini
Fatta tanti anni fa. La ricordo magnifica, con il primo tiro spiazzante perché a freddo (e quel giorno era già freddo di per sé). Piuttosto sostenuta. Sono d'accordo con l'amico Piero Pagliani, nel suo ordine di difficoltà è tra le migliori che si possano percorrere, anche perché il posto è quella meraviglia che tutti conosciamo. Entusiasmante il diedro finale.
04/10/2009 Larry
Gruppo montuoso stupendo, partecipando alla transcivetta vedevo sempre questa torre e arrivare in vetta è veramente emozionante.La via, poi, una cosa fantastica:roccia sempre buona, bei tiri omogenei, chiodi veramente pochi però le soste ci sono.Anche bel tempo e visibilita buona che vuoi di più?
07/07/2009 Paolo Fumis
Passaggio espostissimo all'attacco. Nel diedro in alto era chiodatissima(2003), mi hanno detto che non lo è più.
Beauty
First ascent
A. Andrich e E. Faè 17/8/1934
Orientation
SW
Length
300m
Height
2337m
Difficulty
V+

Route



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