Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowRoutes arrowVia Napoleone

Via Napoleone

First ascent: Manuele Panzeri, Pietro Tentori, 2006. Terminated by Manuele Panzeri and Giovanni Giarletta ion 03/08/2017
By: Giovanni Giarletta
Area: Bernina Alps, Group: Masino - Bregaglia, Peak: Punta Valeria, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Via Napoleone is an alpine climb in Val Torrone (SO), above Val Masino, established ground-up past the most obvious lines of weakenss.

ACCESS

The route climbs the wall to the right of Fiamma del Torrone and is recognizable by two marked grassy ledges on the upper section. Punta Valeria (proposed toponym) is the rocky bow characterized by a set of sharp spires at its summit.

From the Manzi-Pirrotta bivouac traverse the moraine towards the obvious Fiamma del Torrone. Scramble up for a hundred meters towards  an obvious white vein at the base of the smooth basal slab, at the end of which are some large flakes (peg with old tat just before a small balcony).

ROUTE

P1 - VI+, 30 mt
P2 - VII+ (VI+/A0), 35 mt
P3 - VI, 45 mt
P4 - VI- 45mt
P5 - tiro di trasferimento con un passo di IV, 55 mt
P6 - VI, 40 mt
P7 - V, 50 mt
P8 - IV, 50 mt

DESCENT

Five abseils down the route. From belay 8 to belay 6. From belay6 to belay5 and from here to belay 3. From belay 3 to belay 2 and from here to the ground.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Via Napoleone"

No comments found for Via Napoleone

Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

VII+ (VI+/A0)

LENGTH

350 m

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH routes

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria