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Astro Zap

First ascent: Giovanni Bassanini, Lamberto Camurri, 4/09/2013
By: Lamberto Camurri
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Le Trident du Tacul, Height: 3693m, Country: France

On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.

ROUTE

Set off up the the splitter crack, vertical at first and then overhanging (6c) and reminiscent of Astroman on Washington Column in Yosemite, before tackling the chimney (6b+), and then the long overhanging hand crack (7a). 

DESCENT

Abseil down the route Eclipse.

GEAR

2 full sets of cams, 1 camalot #3. Take a gear bag to the Lepiney ledge. 

NOTES

The belays were bolted by Francesco Civra, while the route is named in honour of Cosimo Zappelli who removed a large number of the 90 pegs and wooden wedges used during the first ascent of the face.

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