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You Cannoli Die Once

First ascent: Tommy Caldwell, Sonnie Trotter, Josh Wharton 06/2014
By: Planetmountain
Area: Apennines, Group: Sicilian Apennines, Peak: Monte Monaco, Country: Italy, Region: Sicily

You Cannoli Die Once takes a steep line to the left of La Lingua Pura and was bolted from above over 2 days by Tommy Caldwell, Sonnie Trotter and Josh Wharton.

The trio made the first free ascent of the route on the 9th of June 2014 and while it turned out to be somewhat easier than they previously thought it nevertheless offers steep climbing up to 7c/7c+ up excellent quality rock.

According to Trotter the new route, You Cannoli Die Once is a "great climb and a nice line for future climbers to enjoy, it contains two of the better pitches I've climbed in San Vito".

GETTING THERE

From San Vito lo Capo drive to the obvious Monte Monaco. Park the car at the northern entry to Camping la Pineta.

ACCESS

Walk to the North Face and the base of the route in just 15 minutes. Start as for La Lingua Pura, left of an obvious grey pillar (the route name is written at the start). 

You Cannoli Die Once actually shares the first 4 or 5 bolts of Lingua Pura and exits left at an obvious weakness point, then traverse across loose scrambling until you get the base of our route.

ROUTE

P1: 5.10+
P2: 5.8
P3: 5.12b/c
P4: 5.10+
P5: 5.10-
P6: 5.12c/d

DESCENT

Walk down the south face in 45 minutes, some grade II scramble.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Autumn, spring

DIFFICULTY

7c/+

FACE

North

LENGTH

200m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.sonnietrotter.com

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