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Arête de Marseille

First ascent: J. Laurent, H. e M. Paillon, E. Wyss, 1927
By: Gianni Lanza, Mountain Guide
Area: France, Group: Calanques, Peak: La Candelle, Country: France, Region: Provence

La Candelle is the symbol of rock climbing in the Calanques, suspended between the sky and the sea, a truly unique place. Arête de Marseille was first climbed in 1927 by J. Laurent, H. and M. Paillon, E. Wyss: it is the super-classic route, unfortunately though the first pitch is very polished. Equipped with bolts, some friends may prove useful in the corner and chimney between the first tower and ridge.

GETTING THERE

Drive or fly to Marseille. From Marseille take the D559 east towards Cassis.

ACCESS

From the university at Luminy walk along the dirt track towards Col de Sugiton, continue heading towards Candelle, turn off left along the GR track and leave this after a few hairpin bends following a track downhill to reach the obvious couloir de Candellon. Scramble up this, steep with some easy rocky sections. Just below the base of the ridge exit right to reach the notch between the first tower and the ridge itself. 1.15 hours.

ROUTE

P1: 6a, 30m, very polished
P2: 5b, 30m, impressive gap between the tower and the ridge: "Le Saut de l'Ange"
P3: 4c, 30m, ridge
P4: 5a, 30m
P5: 5a, 30m
P6: 5a, 10m, short vertical face
P7: 2a, 30m

DESCENT

Move east for 50 meters to reach a belay and abseil chain; a 30m abseil onto the north face leads to the path that descends to Col de Sugiton.

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BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

6a

FACE

West

LENGTH

190m

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LINK

www.montagnabiellese.com

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