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La Calanque

First ascent: R. Reynaud e R. Roulet, 1948
By: Gianni Lanza, Mountain Guide
Area: France, Group: Calanques, Peak: En Vau, Country: France, Region: Provence

An extraordinary route. From the third pitch you can marvel at the fish in the sea a hundred metres. La Calanque was first climbed in 1948 by R. Reynaud and R. Roulet and although protected by bolts, a set of camming devices may prove useful. Start in a corner about half way along the Passerelle ledge.

GETTING THERE

Drive or fly to Marseille. From Marseille take the D559 east towards Cassis.

ACCESS

From Cassis reach the Port Miou car park, park here and continue on foot along the dirt road down to the Port Pin Calanque. Take the green path that leads to Plateau della Gardiole and continue on to En Vau in circa 1 hour. Once at the beach traverse along the righthand side, close to the water's edge, for circa 40m and then scramble up the path past some rocky outcrops to reach the Passarelle ledge. Continue along this, it soon becomes exposed (go roped up) and after an equipped section with some bolts continue for another 50 to reach the corner and the start of the route.

ROUTE

P1: 5a, 30m, very polished
P2: 3a, 20m, traverse left
P3: 4c, 30m
P4: 5a, 30m
P5: 5c, 30m

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BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

5c

FACE

NE

LENGTH

140m

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LINK

www.montagnabiellese.com

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