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Dente del Gigante

First ascent: The guides Jean Joseph, Daniele and Baptiste Maquignaz, with Alessandro, Alfonso, Corradino and Gaudenzio Sella, 28/07/1882
By: Gianni Lanza, Mountain Guide
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Dente del Gigante, Height: 4013m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

The normal route up the Dente del Gigante is partially equipped with large ropes to aid the ascent and over the years it has become one of the great classics in the Mont Blanc range. Often crowded, never technically difficult but nevertheless some may find the route complex and tiring. From the summit there is a sweeping panorama over the entire Mont Blanc range.

GETTING THERE

From Courmayeur, park at the La Palud cable car.

ACCESS

Take the cable car to Punta Helbronner, or Rifugio Torino, cross the upper section of the Glacier de Geant, navigate past Aguilles Marbrèes, ascned towards the Dente climbing past the mixed bastion called "La Gengiva" to reach  the Salle a Manger terrace.  2-2.30 hours from Rifugio Torino.

ROUTE

Start on the left, via an exposed ledge. Two 30m pitches lead to a terrace at the base of the famous Burgener slab (in-situ ropes, bolts, grade III). Ascend the slab using the rope and then traverse right (more in-situ ropes) to reach the extremely exposed SW arete. Follow this to Punta Sella at 4009m. From here descend circa 10m (grade III, in-situ rope) traverse the base of Punt Grahaman 4013m and ascend this using the in-situ rope. 1.30 hours.

DESCENT

Two optionsi:
A: Descend down the route, some sections need downclimbing, others are descended via 30m abseils.
B: 6 abseils 25/30m, some down the South Face void. This is more direct and faster, but very exposed.

GEAR

Crampons, ice axe, mountain boots for the glacier. Helmet, harness, slings and quickdraws to protect yourself on the in-situ ropes, + 70m rope and belay plate for the abseil

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DIFFICULTY

AD (III)

FACE

West

LENGTH

160m

LINK

www.montagnabiellese.com

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Recent Comments
  • Tovaric
    Via stupenda, gradi stretti e numerosi passaggi obbligatori, ...
    2013-12-16 / MICHELE LUCCHINI
  • Don Quixote
    Che dire di questa stupenda via......quando l'ho ripetuta er ...
    2013-12-01 / moreno rossini
  • Re Artù
    semplicemente fantastica,da divertirsi andate a farla. solo ...
    2013-11-24 / moreno rossini
  • La Salvana
    bella via di media difficoltá con in realtá pochi spit ma ...
    2013-09-28 / Armin Craffonara