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Diedre - Stawamus Chief

Canada>British Columbia>Canada>Squamish>Stawamus Chief

Millie Evans

Main article

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Diedre: Slab and corner climbing on Diedre

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Jim Baldwin & Jim Sinclair, 1962. FFA: B. Woodsworth, M. Lasserre, 1963

Millie Evans

Orientation

North West

Length

300m

Difficulty

5.8

Period

April - September.

Diedre is an outstanding route. Every pitch is a delight, hence its popularity. It is six pitches long and all the belays are bolted. A 60m rope is needed but if you had two this would give you an abseil escape option if needed. There is only one real run-out which is a slab traverse on pitch two. It is short lived though – just keep the focus! There is tons of gear on the rest of the route because it follows a sweeping corner crack.

Getting there
The Chief is located on Highway 99 and is unmissable as you drive from Vancouver to Squamish. It towers over the highway just south of Squamish town centre and there are several different parking spots depending on which routes you are heading for. The Apron car park is located about just south of the town centre at the turning to Mamquam Forest Service road. This places you directly below the climbing. Access
The carpark is 500m north of the Chief campsite. Follow the path past the toilet and scramble up and right to the base of the route. Descent
It is an easy walk of along Broadway ledge and then back onto the main path. Gear
Full rack needed, but bolted belays. Maps/Bibliography
- Squamish Select by Marc Bourdon.
- Climbers Guide to Squamish by Kevin McLane
- Climb Squamish covers lots of extra information beyond what the guidebook provides to help the travelling climber. It covers all sorts of detailed information regarding routes, travel, accommodation, bear advice etc.