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Donnafugata

First ascent: Christoph Hainz & Roger Schäli 2004. First free ascent Mauro Bubu Bole & Gabriele Gorobey 07/2007
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Civetta, Peak: Torre Trieste, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

At the start of July 2007 Mauro Bubu Bole from Trieste made the first free ascent of Donnafugata, the 750m route first ascended by none other than Christoph Hainz and Roger Schäli in summer 2004 up the massive vertical bastion on the S Face of Torre Trieste.

Bubu needed five days to free this "fantastic" route which had been first ascended with the use of bolts because, as Hainz had declared, it would have been simply impossible without. Bubu worked the route for four days at the start of July with Ines Papert from Germany but, since she was otherwise engaged, climbed the route on 4 August together with Gabriele Gorobey in a 13 and a half hour push.

Bubu, who led all pitches free straight off, describes the route as follows: "Donnafugata is a great line up an even face which is even greater than it seems. The route is well protected with bolts and pegs, the belays are safe and perfect for a quick retreat (a sign of maturity!). Just a few camming devices are needed for the first 4 pitches, as is that sensibility to climb up friable rock which comes about after years of experience. Powerful climbers beware! And you also need a capable partner (like I had) and stamina and motivation to climb it all in one day! Ah, I forgot... really tight climbing shoes for the crux 15th pitch."

ROUTE

1st pitch: 4a, 50m; 2nd pitch: 5a, 50m; 3rd pitch: 5a, 50m; 4th pitch: 5a, 50m; 5th pitch: 6b, 25m; 6th pitch: 6c, 45m; 7th pitch: 6b+, 25m; 8th pitch: 7b+, 30m; 9th pitch: 6b, 25m; 10th pitch: 7a, 40m; 11th pitch: 6a, 30m; 12th pitch: 6b, 30m; 13th pitch: 7b, 30m; 14th pitch: 6b+, 45m; 15th pitch: 8a, 45m; 16th pitch: 6c, 50m; 17th pitch: 7a, 25m; 18th pitch: 7b, 25m; 19th pitch: 6a, 40m; 20th pitch: 5a, 50m; 21st pitch: 6a, 40m; 22nd pitch: 6a, 40m; 23rd pitch: 5a, 50m

DESCENT

Abseil down the normal route.

GEAR

Some camming devices for the first 4 pitchs, full set of quickdraws (the route is protected by pegs and bolts)

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a/A2

FACE

S

LENGTH

750m

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