Linea d'ombra - Avancorpo del Gran Vernel

Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Luca Campagna & Silvano Matassoni 2003
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SE
Length
250m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c+

Route



First ascended from the ground-up in 2003 with 8mm bolts, this nice 250m route takes a line up the left-hand side of the Gran Vernel buttress, the large east-facing wall which looks onto Lake Fedaia. The rock tends to be just off-vertical and offers excellent slab climbing with great pockets and incredible friction!
Getting there
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia. Access
From Lake Fedaia take the lift to Pian dei Fiacconi, then continue along the path which leads to the Marmolada Via Ferrata. reach the end of the scree and cut right to enter the gully which descends from the col Forcella del Vernel. Aim for the large 'missile' which seems to be detached from the main face. Calculate 1 hour from the refuge. Itinerary
P1: 5c, 45m, 3 bolts
P2: 6b+, 25m, 7 bolts
P3: 6a+, 30m, 4 bolts
P4: 6c+, 50m, 5 bolts + 1 thread
P5: 6b+, 30m, 6 bolts
P6: 7a+, 45m, 8 bolts
P7: 6a, 20m, 3 bolts Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
10 quickdraws, some threads, a camelot n° 0.75 and a cliff. The rock doesn't take much pro, and the easier sections are fairly run-out. Notes
The 1st belay on the wide ledge is equipped with one bolt only, all others are equipped with twin bolts for the descent. The setting is spectacular, close to the north Face of the Marmolada but far from the tourists and traffic. The sun receives the sun from the early morning to the early afternoon.




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11/07/2008 Pastorello-Tzara
bravi ragazzi, ambiente super, peccato sia così corta
01/07/2008 hermann zanetti
bel avvicinamentoe bella arrampicata .per divertirsi buona padronanza del 7a
03/06/2008 Tommy
...diciamo che la roccia nei primi due tiri non è il massimo ma si ripulirà poi è davvero super! La via è bella e l'ambiente da favola.Grazie agli apritori...
23/05/2008 federico penasa
davvero una via con roccia bellissima. spittaggio lungo e impegnativo. complimenti agli apritori. unica pecca: tutti gli spit sono da 8 mmm
Beauty
First ascent
Luca Campagna & Silvano Matassoni 2003
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SE
Length
250m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c+

Route



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