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Gente di Mare

First ascent: Marco Sterni & Mauro Florit 14-15/07/05 & 06/08/05
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Croda da Lago, Peak: Lastoni di Formin, Country: Italy

The mountain and the rock face need no introduction, all you have to do is say one name: "Super tegolina". There are few climbers who like this type of route who haven't yet climbed it. At first glance "Gente di mare" may seem like its photocopy, but this isn't the case. "Gente di mare" has its own logic and the first objective is to climb the fantastic detached pillar in three pitches. The 37m abseil into the void is beautiful too, and leads to the col between the pillar and the main face. The route then continues vertically just a few meters from the arête, moving up left and right past the obvious roofs and then directly up through the finishing overhangs.The difficulties are similar to "Super tegolina" but on the whole the route is more demanding, as the obligatory climbing is harder and so too is the route finding through the crux sections. A set of medium/small camming devices is recommended for the final pitches which are easier but less protected. The route is recommended for its beauty and the satisfying nature of the climbing itself, but we have to underline that 6c must be mastered to climb it.

GETTING THERE

Passo Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino.

ACCESS

Approach this climb by driving down from Passo Giau towards Cortina, parking the car after some hairpin bends and following the obvious path no. 436 towards the Forcella Giau. After the forest the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that come down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to beneath the wall and reach the start of the route to the right of a diagonal ramp, at the bottom of a crack.Allow about an hour for the walk-in.

ROUTE

P1: 6b, 9 bolts, 45m
P2 : 6b/c, 8 bolts, 40m
P3: 6c, 8 bolts, 55m
P4: abseil, 37m
P5: 6b, 6 bolts, 45m
P6: 7a, 7 bolts, 35m
P7: 6a, 5 bolts, 35m
P8: 5c, 4 bolts, 30m
P9: 5a, 2 bolts, 30m
P10: 6b/c, 5 bolts, 35m

DESCENT

1 - From the summit plateau walk towards Croda da Lago to arrive at the forcella Rossa. Follow the path from here down the South gully and traverse right beneath the wall to the forcella Giau, to meet up with the path that leads down to the car.
2 - Abseil down Super Tegolina
3 - Abseil down the route to the col (6 abseils), then 2 more abseils in the gully next to the pillar, the first 60m, the second 30m (fix bolt with carabiner)

GEAR

Two 55m ropes, 10 quickdraws, some medium/small friends may be found useful on the final pitches

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COMMENTS for the route "Gente di Mare"

31-08-2008, Swen Harald
Very nice route, especially the first 4 pitches. More sustained, demanding and run-out than Super Tegolina. Medium-size (0.5 - 2) Camalots were usefull on the first 4 pitches to shorten some of the run-outs. Crux on 5th pitch is short and tricky to read. 2nd pitch has tricky section as well, but the 3rd and 4th pitch provide the mental cruxes... Go climb it!
27-07-2007, Albi Albi
Via bellissima,roccia super (anche se in alcuni tratti va prestata attenzione).Chiodatura lunga (bisogna essere determinati),decisamente più impegnativa rispetto a Super Tegolina.Se si scende in doppia lungo la via con corde da 60 sono 3 doppie fino alla forcella,un'ultima da 60 e poi 10m di arrampicata facile fino alla base della parete.Secondo me basta portare i rinvii,si integra poco niente!Buon divertimento!
01-07-2007, Regattin Luciano
Splendida via a mio parere superiore alla vicina Supertegolina (ma é solo la mia opinione). La spittatura non è proprio da "conigli", ma nemmeno stile Wenden, comunque il tiro chiave ha un obbligatorio severo, non si "azzera" (come si suol dire). Ciao e buona arrampicata!!
11-06-2007, nadali lorenzo
attenzione al 4°tiro, spit lunghi e parete dietro vicina.Prendere friends medi e nuts.Possibile rientro in doppia dal canale a destra della partenza del 4°tiro .Si scende 15mt arrampicando dopo una prima calata di 60mt.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c

FACE

W

LENGTH

350m

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