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Via Cassin

First ascent: Riccardo Cassin, Vittorio Ratti, 1935
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Peak: Cima Ovest , Country: Italy

A beautiful route, one of the classics in the Dolomites. Exposed and sustained climbing up to 7a, on fairly solid rock.

GETTING THERE

The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.

ACCESS

From Rifugio Auronzo take path no.105 to Col di Mezzo and continue to the North Face. Follow the track across the scree to the base of the arête and start to the right, close to some scree ramps.

DESCENT

Reach the ledge and traverse right onto the South Face. Descend for 20m to a col that faces Cima Grande. Descend left into a gully, first left, then right, to avoid the boulders in the middle. Continue down the gully to the scree slope between Cima Grande and Cima Ovest.

GEAR

There is plenty of in-situ gear, take numerous quickdraws, slings, kevlar cords, nuts and some friends.

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COMMENTS for the route "Via Cassin"

21-03-2008, Del Buono Cristiana Dell'Oro Ruggero
30anni..fa Hanno offuscato un pò la memoria (duro un tiro prima di arrivare al traverso e prima di una grotta... gocciolante e piena di sabbietta i tiri d'uscita con gli scarponi.....seeenza spit e una lente a contatto persa per un pianto disperato per un temporale in arrivo che terrorizzava mia moglie....ne stò pagando ancora adesso...artrite artrosi...beata gioventù che non mi ritorna più...ma quante soddisfazioni...ciao
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6/A0

FACE

N

LENGTH

450 m

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