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Giancarlo Milan

First ascent: S. Dibona, G. Salton, A. Ciampitti, P. Baroldi, 1984
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Spalti di Col Becchei, Peak: Tae’, Country: Italy

Beautiful slab climbing up compact, weathered rock. The route starts to the right of Gimmi and avoids the top roofs by traversing left above them.


From Cortina drive towards Dobbiaco along the SS51. After the small village Fiames turn left off the main road (signposted Val di Fanes - Trevenanzes). Park the car at the entrance to the park and continue on foot. Follow signs for Fanes, over several bridges and along the forest road. After a few bends the path straightens out and continues along the valley floor, past the Taé walls on the right, and then on to the Spalti di Col Becchei. The path forks at this point; go right over a small bridge onto the other side of the valley floor towards the Spalti. A cairn indicates a small path leading off rightwards through the wood steeply up to the rock face. To reach Illusione Ottica and Thriller scramble up the scree, traverse leftwards along an exposed section beneath a band of rock, and then return rightwards. The other routes are reached more easily by walking directly up to the base of the crag. Taé’s routes are reached by crossing the bridge and briefly following the road, to then ascend the gully on the right. Reach the pine trees and then scramble up the ramp rightwards to the base of the wall.


Walk past the start of Via Gimmi and continue to the base of a leftwards slanting corner (tree).


Descend left (west) down the wide slopes to the saddle that separates Taé from Col Becchei. Either continue south and traverse to the Col Becchei abseil tree, or head north into Val d’Antruiles. Follow the path back.


The in-situ gear is fairly good, take a set of wires and friends.

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COMMENTS for the route "Giancarlo Milan"

06-11-2006, Beppe
Seguendo la relazione del iacopelli, la via non è difficile tra individuare, logicamente il certi punti, ci vuole un pò di naso. La roccia è di ottima qualità e i tiri molto belli. Forse dare VII- nel passaggio del 9° tiro, è un pò troppo; ma questo resta solo il mio giudizio. Invece rimane delicato e forse più impegnativo il 6° tiro, dove aderenza e tecnica ne fannno da contorno.Beppe
21-08-2004, Bruno Belligoli
tutte le soste attrezzati con chiodi nuovila ricerca dell'itinerario è impegnativo
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